Defining hole position

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Ray Jorgensen
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Defining hole position

Postby Ray Jorgensen » Sun, Jan 21 2007, 11:12AM

Here's what I'm wanting to do. Define where to predrill holes for screws. On a base cab I would want 4 evenlly space holes in the center of the dado cut for the deck on each side of the cabinet. Also a series of evenly spaced holes on the back to secure it and to secure strechers.

I'm fed up with brads going stray and having to deal with fixing that problem later.

I know I can add them in the parts editor and define constraints just wondering if there is a easier way to add them.

Thanks

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Roger Erismann
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Postby Roger Erismann » Sun, Jan 21 2007, 1:24PM

Ray,

I just left a company wher they insited on using screws through the dadoes.....the extra time was a nightnmare. Cause the CNC will not drill the Horizontal member(it will but apparently it is not efficient) so you gotta go through and pilot hole manually each time even if the sides are predrilled.

Better yet I went and visited a compny two weeks ago and they were upset because they had to put two screws in each case...

HAfele makes a self drilling and countersinking screw that would work very well and not involve CNC time or manual predrilling after you have allready used CNC time...

I thought wiht the new Constraint manager you could edit parts and change sizes? Why don't you develop your seed cabs with the holes where you want them and then go from there?
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DanEpps
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Re:

Postby DanEpps » Sun, Jan 21 2007, 1:56PM

Roger Erismann wrote:I thought wiht the new Constraint manager you could edit parts and change sizes? Why don't you develop your seed cabs with the holes where you want them and then go from there?


This would work for decks and tops but if you use the same methods for fixed shelves you would still have to manually place the holes for the shelves. The reason is that decks and tops are always in the same location so the holes can be constrained for that location. Shelves on the other hand can be located anywhere between the deck and top.

Constraints can only be placed in relation to edges or other holes on the part that contains the hole being constrained. Since the holes would be in the end panels and not the shelves, you could not constrain the holes to move with shelf placement.

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Roger Erismann
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Postby Roger Erismann » Sun, Jan 21 2007, 4:20PM

Dan,

The last place I was at had the same issue, the only predrilled locations were the deck and the top....hence the time waster that it was...

They used MicroVellum

So it would work for the decks and the tops correct?

I wouldn't know cause I use the blind dadoes and staple right through...Shiners are easy to avoid with a steady hand...

I have also noticed that alot of guys hold the staple gun perpendicular to the joint....that is the easiest way to get a shiner....if you staple paralel to the joint you should see it alot less...a whole lot
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DanEpps
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Postby DanEpps » Sun, Jan 21 2007, 4:52PM

It will work for any part that has a fixed location and connects to the end panels.

Talkin' about shiners...I once drove the tip of a 16# nail into the joint of my finger with a framing nailer--OUCH!!! I'm just glad it was only the tip and not more :wink:

Ray Jorgensen
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Postby Ray Jorgensen » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 9:47AM

Thanks for the input. I'm not out to waste time and effort so maybe I'll forget it.

I have put a couple of brads into fingers. I'm pretty careful where my fingers are when I'm nailing now, it hurts!!!

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Postby Michael Yeargain » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 3:51PM

Dan,

Talk about shiners and finger joints...

I had a contractor work for me untill this happened.. Building storage sheds He was nailing bottom plates into the stud with a air gun 16s and missed the first nail, He nailed on top of that nail that he missed the first time and it impacted that nail and sent it into the first three fingers of his left hand. All three joints...
ouch! that must have hurt...
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DanEpps
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Postby DanEpps » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 4:57PM

OUCH!!!

I'm glad mine was less than 1/8\" of the nail tip--and that HURT just from the impact! My finger swelled to about three times its normal size for the next few days.

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Postby Paul Huff » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 8:21PM

This is what we have been doing on this cabinet. We created a dxf file to locate the screws. I saved the cabinets without the holes in case we wanted to change anything. When I get ready to add all the holes I just loaded in the template to add the holes all at once. The dxf file is easy to edit if we decide to change the hole patterns. But I don't know if I would want to do a lot of different cabinets this way. I does take some extra time. This is a cabinet that we a cutting many of so a little extra time on the design was not a big deal.
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Roger Erismann
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Postby Roger Erismann » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 8:48PM

That is a clever solution....

Can we make the DXF file in e-cabs?

Do you do that with Blind Dadoes also? If you do why not just staple em?

Very cool
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Postby Paul Huff » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 8:53PM

You can make an x_t file of your hole patterns in eCabinets and save it. Then reload it on another piece if you want.

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Roger Erismann
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Postby Roger Erismann » Mon, Jan 22 2007, 9:05PM

You mean like doing hole patterns for hardware?
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Postby DanEpps » Tue, Jan 23 2007, 6:35AM

You can save ANY part editor design as an X_T tool file. If you create the same cutouts repeatedly on parts, save the design and reuse it.

For example, I use this feature to create cutouts on leg bases for my armoire-style entertainment centers. I also use it for creating non-rectangular cutouts in display panels that I use as the rails and stiles for panel doors.


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