fit clearances, over/under, accuracy

KyleHepp · Post by **KyleHepp** » Thu, May 17 2007, 12:05PM

I'm VERY new to ecab as well as CNC processing. Immediately, I have a few questions regarding accuracy and tolerances.

It seems as though everything's accounted for with relation to the \"generic\" material selected. -Of course I rarely receive .7500000 inch sheet stock! Where do I go to calibrate for my actual material being used?
Also, what is the most sensible way to deal with factory edges?

Blind dado appears to be KING, and I wish to use it everywhere I can. I have some real concerns over fit clearances... Are there any good writeups regarding FIT CLEARANCES someone could direct me to? I primarily build with .75\" veneer core/solid FF's. Considering the potential and price point of the nest based puzzle joint, I'm strongly considering eliminating solid stock from my boxes... to K.I.S.S., I'll keep my question about fit clearances to the blind dados for now though. Aside from case clamp/RF gluing, and WITHOUT metal fasteners, what procedures/clearances work best? By \"best\" I want the cleanest and strongest joint possible. (slip fit, quick glue application, little or no runout)

Lastly (for now) Concerning flip-ops, what kind of inaccuracies are we talking about?
Flip-ops -vs- manual processing are my consideration here.

Justin Melhiser · Post by **Justin Melhiser** » Thu, May 17 2007, 1:23PM

Kyle
The material thickness can be set in the settings and preferences under define stock materials. Knowing that sheet material is hardly ever the correct size, there is a button when creating the twd file for the machine called \"Change Material Thickness\". This allows you to automatically change the sheet material thickness to specify the correct size and everything will come out correct. This way you do not have to store numerous materials because of thickness changes.
Now for the fit clearances you can set those to what ever works best for you. A good thing is if you set you clearances to tight or loose all you have to do is go back in to the cabinet editor and change those settings till you reach the desired fit clearances.

If you have anymore questions feel free to call me at 1-877-880-4638 ext. 227
Thank You
Justin

Michael S Murray · Post by **Michael S Murray** » Thu, May 17 2007, 3:25PM

Hey Kyle,
I cut mostly vcp but also cut melamine. I use .020 for depth clearence and .015 for fit clearanace, for both materials. Keep in mind that your tools have to be set up correctly and your wasteboard and daylight values accurate so that it all adds up.

Flip ops are less accurate, but still very accurate compared to manual machining. The machine is dead on, but with flip ops the challenge can be smaller parts slipping or debris on the fence. I blow my machine off good and double stick tape anything that even acts like it might move. Very few problems...

I might be available to come down this winter and help you out if you have a guest house there in Napels! I have a bud at 5th and 3rd and works in old Naples, spent 6 months there yrs. ago and should have never left!

KyleHepp · Post by **KyleHepp** » Thu, May 17 2007, 3:55PM

What do you use for adhesive with 0.20/0.15 fit clearances, and how do you apply?

KyleHepp · Post by **KyleHepp** » Thu, May 17 2007, 4:06PM

I moved my family down here from Vail, CO last year. It has taken its toll on us to say the least... Surely not the paradise we'd hoped for. I truly believe eCabinets and the eventual addition of a Thermwood CNC router will provide the leverage I need to compete in this hostile market. Back home I picked the jobs I wanted, sticking mostly to stairs, curved work, fine doors, furniture and one off cab projects. I built my last kitchen about 6 years ago... More has changed besides the sunny weather for us, as I have yet to make the right connections here in Florida.

Michael S Murray · Post by **Michael S Murray** » Thu, May 17 2007, 4:18PM

Yes Sir, it does take some serious money to live well in Naples. BUt if a person had bought property when I was there and held on to it, I wouldnt be here discussing routers! We use good old wood glue and pin anything that is not exposed, if it is and doesnt get a cover panel, we do those first and set them aside in clamps and then come back to them after the others are assembled, not a problem for us, although we seldom assemble more than one kitchen at a time..

KyleHepp · Post by **KyleHepp** » Thu, May 17 2007, 4:37PM

actually, you're fortunate that you DIDN'T purchase property here a few years ago. The bubble has burst here. It's estimated at about two years out before the real estate mkt swings back around. In fact NOW is a good time to start shopping for your SW FL property.

You say .020 for depth and .015 for fit. I perceived that it might have been the other way around, would you explain?
Also, does this apply to puzzle joints and or M&T as well?

I use PVA too. I just like to fit my joinery so that one even bead will fill in just right without running out too much.

KyleHepp · Post by **KyleHepp** » Thu, May 17 2007, 4:43PM

OH, before getting too much further, how do you deal with factory sheet good edges? And are there magic numbers for tenon lengths?
I'd rather overthink this NOW than later...