45deg Blum Hinge Issue

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Chris Robinson
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45deg Blum Hinge Issue

Postby Chris Robinson » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 10:13AM

Hey Everyone,

This has nothing to do with eCabs and everything to do with Blum 45 degree clip hinges and door overlay. I want to hear how others are handling this issue.

I'm building frameless cabs with 3mm reveals. On 45 degree corner cabinets, the Blum guide says that the door should be 7mm smaller than the opening. My opening is 404mm. Therefore the door width is 397mm.

I've had 2 clients in the last couple of months puke all over the fact that you can see past the sides of the door into the cabinet interior. One customer installed a light inside the cabinet, and it creates a nice glow around the door.

Up until a couple of years ago, I used Grass hinges and I don't remember having this issue. The doors were ordered 3mm wider than the opening and everything worked fine.

I emailed Blum with the issue and here's the response, \"Chris, We thank you for using Blum products. Unfortunately, you are correct, you will be able to see through the gap into the cabinet opening. Below is a PDF file on our Mitered corner and corner merge specification you can use found on page 38 and 40 in our Concealed Hinge catalog. (See attached file: Angled hinge.pdf)\"

So, contrary to one of my customer's concern that I \"don't know what I'm doing...\", I have been following the guidelines correctly. I understand the geometry involved and risk of collision of adjacent doors. I don't think that with the 37mm hinge plate setback from cabinet side edge, that I can crank the hinge forward enough to give me the clearance that a wider door will require.

Does anyone use a different manufacturer that doesn't have this problem and uses the Blum boring pattern? How are you handling this issue with your 45 degree cabinets?


Chris R

David Werkheiser
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Postby David Werkheiser » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 1:07PM

Chris, I too have problems with Blum 45* hinges. My problem is with full overlay, 3mm reveals, using square cabinet sides, 37mm system hole setback, the door face \"steps in\" from the faces of adjoining doors. If I bring door out from box, I need to use double or triple thick bumpers and hold door away from box. Am I using the wrong hinges?
By the way the LB30 I got from you is still running like a charm.
David Werkheiser

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Paul Ford
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Postby Paul Ford » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 1:45PM

Hi guys,
We do ours slightly different to how the catalogue sounds.
We use a 20mm set back on our cabinet end for the hinge mounting plate and drill the cup hole in the door exactly the same as any other door...
We use a 5mm mounting plate and usually minus 2mm off the cabinet opening and it works perfectly.
This all depends on how you actually set the cabinet up however.
When we set the cabinet up we sit the top of the cabinet out 6mm past the front edge of the ends.
I have attached one of our 45 degree pantry's for you to take a look at, you will notice there are no hinge mount holes in the ends, thats just because I haven't had time to do it :)
Hope this helps.
1175 x 1175 Corner Pantry end to floor.jpg
1175 x 1175 Corner Pantry end to floor.jpg (8.21 KiB) Viewed 4175 times
1175 x 1175 Corner Pantry end to floor.hsf
(1.34 MiB) Downloaded 270 times

Rick Palechuk
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Postby Rick Palechuk » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 2:19PM

They make two styles of 45^ overlay hinges. We angle cut our gables, then use either the 5/16 or 5/8 overlay. The backset for the plate in different than standard. It's in there tech manual.

Gene Davis

Postby Gene Davis » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 5:28PM

I gotta ask.

How does a little teenie peekaboo through the sides cause grief?

Compare it to the 3mm gap between the paired doors of an frameless 2-door cabinet. It's about the same.

I suppose if you do lights inside cabs, it's an issue. Lights? Maybe for wallcabs with glass doors and glass shelves, but otherwise? Are these for people with ground effects lighting in their wheel wells and under their rockers?


Michael Yeargain
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Postby Michael Yeargain » Wed, Sep 12 2007, 7:15PM

I have been feeling this for 2 years now. High end clientel that has to be made perfect. :P

I don't mind the highend work but the price you pay for it. I can't say it's worth it or not but...

On the other hand, I am seeking clients from another market. I need a break... :lol:
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Chris Robinson
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Postby Chris Robinson » Thu, Sep 13 2007, 8:53AM

The only way I can see around this issue is to bastardize the wholse setup by making two blocks that are mitered on one edge at a 45* and attach those flush to the face of the cabinet sides. Then mount a 9.5 plate to that at the standard 37mm set back. Then use standard 120* hinges...and hope they don't rub adjacent doors.

Of the two complainers, one cabinet has a glass door, finished interior. The other is a standard cabinet and door.

I don't want to miter the sides because I then have no way to edgeband and creates a whole new set of problems.


David, glad to hear that Castle is still running. It's a very good machine!

Michael S Murray
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Postby Michael S Murray » Thu, Sep 13 2007, 9:08AM

Hey Guys,
I use a .375 reveal on residential and dont have this problem and I dont build a angled commercial cabinet because I use full overlay. I have seen and read the method that the true 32 guys use that looks like it might work. They use a filler/spacer that they cut on a angle and install on both sides of the corner cabinet. I use a salice hinge and plate and make my door about 1/16 wider than opening on the corner cabinet, about the best I have come up with for the situation.
Mike Murray
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