Adjustable Shelf Holes Wish
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Adjustable Shelf Holes Wish
We are having a little wish that I would like to direct towards the eCabinets program engineers. When you put adjustable shelves in eCabinets it centers the shelf according to the thickness of the material. I know that it is not hard for you guys to create an option to center the holes and not the shelves. Our cabinetmakers are getting so lazy now that we provide all the hardware holes that they dont even measure which is the bottom and which is the top on a cabinet gable. So they often flip them. I can center them by resizing the top opening when I put a shelf (remove 3/8\" from it) but the thing is I forget as well - mainly because I have to do it separatly for each cabinet and sometimes I forget where I changed it and where I didnt and some kitchens have 15 or more cabinets and it becomes a mess. So if it is not a big deal could you creat such an option.
P.S I know that I havent been a good boy this year (I have been very critical about eCabinets) but if not for me do it for the other programmers. Thank you
P.S I know that I havent been a good boy this year (I have been very critical about eCabinets) but if not for me do it for the other programmers. Thank you
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Yeah, we got the router about 10 months ago. It used to run about 4 hours per day. Now it's running full work day and Saturdays. We program all cabinets on eCab and then cut them on the router. It's easy to control and you have a history of what you have actually built in time. Plus if you make a mistake it's easy to find who did it. Hehe ME. It saves lots of time because all you have to do after is just put the cabinet together. We've pushed some laminated cabinets in no time. It used to take us forever to do them before.
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Georgi,
Congratulations on what sounds like success in your business.
We are anticipating the arrival of our router and are trying to design our cabinets with blind dados in such a way as to prevent the assembly guys from putting a part in the wrong place. We are using different setbacks on the tenons and thicknesses etc.
I'd be curious as to what you and others might be doing to force correct assembly through your designs. Anyone care to share construction setting strategies with respects to this issue?
Steve
Congratulations on what sounds like success in your business.
We are anticipating the arrival of our router and are trying to design our cabinets with blind dados in such a way as to prevent the assembly guys from putting a part in the wrong place. We are using different setbacks on the tenons and thicknesses etc.
I'd be curious as to what you and others might be doing to force correct assembly through your designs. Anyone care to share construction setting strategies with respects to this issue?
Steve
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Steve our cabinet makers still flip the parts that have blind dado on them. There is no real warranty. We have state of the art drawings done on AutoCad and we give them to the cabinet makers and they still flip the parts sometimes. I guess the same way I get dislexic sometimes when I punch in the dimensions of the cabinets. It's much easier and everyone likes it now. It makes assembly so much easier. You still need to check which side is up or down but that's all.
But that's not all. We are really custom. There's nothing the same with us. So we would do curved profiles. Started cutting our own corian if it comes with funny shape. I dont really like the Profile Modeler on the machine so I opted for Mastercam Router Pro that I hope to get for xmas but now everything seems to be possible.
And there's something else. We got a v-groove 45degree bit that makes cuts in veneered MDF so you dont see joint, the grain continues on all sides. It's amazing how fast you can do some cabinets with it now.
And still we need to learn a lot more. We are still experimenting to learn the best way to do things. I cant really tell you how to do cabinets because I am not sure what kind of work you are doing and what materials. But you will see a big positive difference when you get the machine. I think it pays off in no time.
But that's not all. We are really custom. There's nothing the same with us. So we would do curved profiles. Started cutting our own corian if it comes with funny shape. I dont really like the Profile Modeler on the machine so I opted for Mastercam Router Pro that I hope to get for xmas but now everything seems to be possible.
And there's something else. We got a v-groove 45degree bit that makes cuts in veneered MDF so you dont see joint, the grain continues on all sides. It's amazing how fast you can do some cabinets with it now.
And still we need to learn a lot more. We are still experimenting to learn the best way to do things. I cant really tell you how to do cabinets because I am not sure what kind of work you are doing and what materials. But you will see a big positive difference when you get the machine. I think it pays off in no time.
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We make our doors flush to the bottom with a 1/4\" reveal at the top, so if the wall cabinet side gets flipped, so does the reveal on that part. We use a 3\" hinge center which means the wall cabinet sides are drilled with a 3\" center at the bottom and a 3 1/4\" center at the top. I should also add 90 percent of our work is commercial and frameless.
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Hi Georgi
Sorry I can't help you with your problem directly but I'm waiting for my Thermwood to arrive early next year.
With my current machine which is a multicam clone, I have trouble with my sides or cable ends. When you put them inside to inside they aren't perfectly level or flush. One side we feel is a 1mm out of square. We have gone through our program and multicam settings but as we are due to change over to Ecabinets the solving of the problem need has deminished. Could you tell me what your result are? Are your left and right sides the same?
Getting back to your problem, with our software we have been able to 0.25mm v groove the part details where the parts butts into another part. This overcomes wrong sticker placement and wrong assembly construction. It does slow the process down though. This won't appeal to everyone but suits our volume.
Regards
Neville
Sorry I can't help you with your problem directly but I'm waiting for my Thermwood to arrive early next year.
With my current machine which is a multicam clone, I have trouble with my sides or cable ends. When you put them inside to inside they aren't perfectly level or flush. One side we feel is a 1mm out of square. We have gone through our program and multicam settings but as we are due to change over to Ecabinets the solving of the problem need has deminished. Could you tell me what your result are? Are your left and right sides the same?
Getting back to your problem, with our software we have been able to 0.25mm v groove the part details where the parts butts into another part. This overcomes wrong sticker placement and wrong assembly construction. It does slow the process down though. This won't appeal to everyone but suits our volume.
Regards
Neville
Neville Australia
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Steve,
I am glad to hear you are getting a router. I have moved just acros the bridge from you near DSM Chemicals. Maybe now you will have the time to go fishing or something.
You may also have time to cut my parts seing you are about 6 miles from me.
Mike
I am glad to hear you are getting a router. I have moved just acros the bridge from you near DSM Chemicals. Maybe now you will have the time to go fishing or something.
You may also have time to cut my parts seing you are about 6 miles from me.
Mike
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Neville,
I am not sure what do you mean not perfectly flush. Anyways with the thermwood I havent had any trouble with precision. If the machine makes an outline cut on the part then I am sure it is perfectly square and everything is the same on all parts. You might have some trouble on flip operations but only is your material is not flat. We use prelaminated plywood because our clients require it. The plywood basically sucks and I hate it but it works and makes money for us. What can you do? When I cut MDF veneer or particalboard the flip result is perfect. Flat and square you always get a good result.
I would recoment you do all your cabinets with blind dado. It easy to locate parts and the cabinet is very strong. Figure out your blind dado offsets because the edgebander might be influenced by the grooves so you might need to increase them more than the 1\" default. For fit clearance use either .015\" or .020\". Depending what is the quality of your board. for depth clearance use around .030\". We use 3/4\" back inset 1/2\" so we can attach split batten for the upper cabinets. You need to cheat the program to get that dado done but figure out how you are going to build your cabinets and then we can talk more.
Good luck
I am not sure what do you mean not perfectly flush. Anyways with the thermwood I havent had any trouble with precision. If the machine makes an outline cut on the part then I am sure it is perfectly square and everything is the same on all parts. You might have some trouble on flip operations but only is your material is not flat. We use prelaminated plywood because our clients require it. The plywood basically sucks and I hate it but it works and makes money for us. What can you do? When I cut MDF veneer or particalboard the flip result is perfect. Flat and square you always get a good result.
I would recoment you do all your cabinets with blind dado. It easy to locate parts and the cabinet is very strong. Figure out your blind dado offsets because the edgebander might be influenced by the grooves so you might need to increase them more than the 1\" default. For fit clearance use either .015\" or .020\". Depending what is the quality of your board. for depth clearance use around .030\". We use 3/4\" back inset 1/2\" so we can attach split batten for the upper cabinets. You need to cheat the program to get that dado done but figure out how you are going to build your cabinets and then we can talk more.
Good luck
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Hi Georgi,
I believe that this is on the list of items to complete for a future update. We are going to allow for system holes. A user would specify front and back insets as well as top and bottom. Then it would fill in the holes in between.
I believe that this is on the list of items to complete for a future update. We are going to allow for system holes. A user would specify front and back insets as well as top and bottom. Then it would fill in the holes in between.
Jason Susnjara
V.P., Marketing
Thermwood Corp.
On YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/ThermwoodCNC
Thermwood Blog:
http://blog.thermwood.com
V.P., Marketing
Thermwood Corp.
On YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/ThermwoodCNC
Thermwood Blog:
http://blog.thermwood.com
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That's great news.
I wonder Jason. With the system holes how will this affect the holes for the hinges? Will this be additional to those holes?
Is this a near future update? If so I will need to stop building my library.
I wonder Jason. With the system holes how will this affect the holes for the hinges? Will this be additional to those holes?
Is this a near future update? If so I will need to stop building my library.
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Corsair RM650
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We should start a topic for each editor in eCabinets about different suggestions and upgrades. There are always priorities but still some ideas are pretty good and will help a lot. Posting here and there and the topics get lost and we keep repeating each other doesnt really work well. We should get more organized. For the sake of eCabinets