Panel front.

[Kerry Fullington]

Damon,

I try to get everything in the cut list for a number of reasons.
First I try to do all my thinking during the design phase of a project. I try to insure that every part is there and the correct size. I then print the nest diagrams as well as the cut list sorted in excel. I put the nest diagrams in a notebook and place a tab numbering every sheet so they are easy to find. I then print the labels for the parts and using the nest diagrams I add codes on the labels to show what machining must be done on this part. "P" for pocket holes, "D" For Dado, "R" for rabbet , "G" for Groove and so on. (I have to do all this because all my operations are manual. This wouldn't be necessary for a router) When I cut out the parts they are labeled and placed in a divided rack by cabinet number. I can then look at the label and see that a part needs a dado and by looking at the label know that this part is part 4 from sheet 15 and I then reference my notebook for position of that dado. I don't have to do any thinking in the shop. I am just a minimum wage employee there. I simply cut and stack. The same goes for the face frame parts. I cut them and stack them on a mobile rack by cabinet. I don't question the cut list.
Because I use the material list from eCabinets to price jobs it is also important to me to have every piece listed to get it's cost. By using a sheet stock called X lumber for the mdf doors I can adjust the cost of the lumber in this material to reflect the labor it takes to glue up the panels. This helps keep my costs more accurate.
I also use the square footage of materials (as well as every hardware component) in my calculations for labor. I have assigned labor to every component of a cabinet and by listing those components in a spread sheet, my labor for the job is calculated. It works very well.

You don't need a lot of this stuff using a router but for me, it smooths things out in the shop.
(sorry about the long winded explanation.)

Greg,

Yes the negative insets are set in construction settings. They have the effect of lengthening the stiles and rails to allow for your cope cut which usually is either 3/8" or 1/2".

[Damon Nabors]

That is correct. Go ahead and make your face frame. Make the lower rail a little larger to accept a base molding and adjust how ever you want to get your proportions correct. I used a upper cabinet by the way, less parts to delete. Now delete all the parts except the back and the face frame. Click on your back and take it into the parts editor and draw out your square panels the same size as the openings in the face frame. Once you have the geometry lines drawn to match the openings in the face frame, choose your raised panel tool and make your geometry cuts. Return to the cabinet editor once you get it the way you desire and then inset the back panel so that it is embeded into the face frame minus a 1/16th or so. No you have your panels that you created on the back crammed into the ff openings. Apply your base and top molding and viola, you have a wainscot panel.