Drw Guides

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Damon Nabors
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Damon Nabors » Mon, Jan 19 2009, 9:56PM

Ben,

Have you tried Hardware Resources? They have a house brand undermount that works great for about $11.00 a pair if purchased case qty.
Damon Nabors

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George Davidson
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby George Davidson » Tue, Jan 20 2009, 1:36AM

Drw Guides
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Drawer runners_1.jpg
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Drawer runners_2.jpg
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Drawer runners_4.jpg
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George Davidson
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby George Davidson » Tue, Jan 20 2009, 1:51AM

Drw Guides
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Drawer runners_5.jpg
Drawer runners_5.jpg (49.22 KiB) Viewed 3926 times
Drawer runners_3.jpg
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Lamar Horton
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Lamar Horton » Fri, Jan 23 2009, 9:11PM

For side mount full extensions I found a system that works for me.

I attach the slide to a strip of 1/2 in ply as wide as the slide (1.75") and as long as the inside of the cabinet is from the back to the inside of the face frame (usually 22.75" using 1/2" for the backs). I overhang the front of the slide by the thickness of the face frame (.75") so the end of the slide is flush with the face of the face frame.

Next I build "pockets" for the back end of the strips to slide into and attach them to the back of the cabinet. By notching a board, aligning the bottom of the notches with the tops of the mid rails. The notches are slightly larger than the strips the slides are attached to.

The slide assembly then slips into pockets created by the notched board and float. The front of the slide an either be attached to the face frame of left loose as well.

Using this method I do not have to climb into the cabinet to attach screws to the walls and partitions any more. All the building and assembling is done outside the cabinet and I am only inside the cabinet long enough to nail, staple or screw the notched board to the back with nothing to align.

If this description does not make sense I can take a picture and show you what I mean.

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John J. Desmond
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby John J. Desmond » Sat, Jan 24 2009, 10:42AM

Lamar,

It makes sense but a picture would be nice if that's ok. :mrgreen:

John
Wood Designs Unlimited
Custom Furniture & Cabinets

http://wooddesignsunlimited.com

Steve Brothers
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Steve Brothers » Mon, Jan 26 2009, 1:53AM

I have a method close to Lamar's in which you mount the slides to a frame with a jig on the work bench instead of inside the cabinet. It makes adjusting the drawer fronts a breeze. I call it slide frame construction which basically is a U shaped frame that keeps the slides parallel both horizontally and vertically. It makes the cabinet a little heavier and uses a little falloff but the advantages of not adding furring strips and screwing inside the cabinet a big plus for this old man. The frame consists of three pieces of ¾ plywood falloff that is 3 ½ wide: the two sides which are the same length as the deck minus 1/16” and the back which is exactly the same width as the drawer opening. I mount the full ext. or euro slides to the centerline of the sides of the frame on a jig. I then pocket screw or nail the two sides to the back making a U shaped frame which can be inserted into the cabinet and screwed to the ff with the front screw in the slide. I use a kreg clamp to hold the opposite side in place while attaching the first side. See photos. So basically now, the frame is only connected to the ff and the back is free floating. Now insert the drawer with the drawer front already attached. I use a clamp to clamp the drawer front to the ff and then screw threw the back of the cabinet into the back of the slide frame to anchor the slides. I then remove the drawer and pocket screw the sides of the slide frame to the back of the ff. Works perfect every time.
Attachments
Slide-frame-mounted.jpg
euro slide detail
Slide-frame-mounted.jpg (13.84 KiB) Viewed 3824 times
slide-frame-fe.jpg
using kreg clamp to hold slide in place
slide-frame-fe.jpg (78.29 KiB) Viewed 3823 times
sf5.jpg
detail of drawer box and slide frame on bench
sf5.jpg (33.67 KiB) Viewed 3824 times

Steve Brothers
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Steve Brothers » Mon, Jan 26 2009, 2:06AM

One more photo of the jig I use for both full ext and euros. The euro side is mounted to the centerline of the frame but attached at the bottom of the opening like normal. With full ext slides I mount the male piece to the centerline of the drawer box. I take the measurement from the bottom of the box to the centerline and then add 1/4", let's say that measurement is 3 1/4". I then measure up from the bottom of the drawer opening 3 1/4" and mark for the centerline of the slide frame. Since I have started using this method I have had perfect sliding drawers almost every time.
Attachments
sf-marking.jpg
Marking centerline of frame
sf-marking.jpg (26.89 KiB) Viewed 3819 times
P1010008-008.jpg
attaching slide using jig
P1010008-008.jpg (33.71 KiB) Viewed 3820 times

Lamar Horton
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Lamar Horton » Mon, Jan 26 2009, 8:48AM

Steve, I have done it your way also but found that getting the frame inside the cabinet too much trouble. I also found that if you rest the slides on face frame there is no need to attach to the front especially if you screw the slide to the face frame.

I will try to get some pictures today when I am at the shop.

Lamar Horton
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Lamar Horton » Mon, Jan 26 2009, 6:39PM

Here are the pictures of my method. Instead of using a solid piece of lumber I used strips of plywood.
Attachments
DSCF0003.JPG
DSCF0003.JPG (137.48 KiB) Viewed 3762 times
DSCF0002.JPG
DSCF0002.JPG (120.96 KiB) Viewed 3762 times
DSCF0001.JPG
DSCF0001.JPG (134.39 KiB) Viewed 3763 times

Frank Fotheringham
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Re: Drw Guides

Postby Frank Fotheringham » Tue, Jan 27 2009, 4:47PM

If your partions and wall ends are set back from the face frame opening, measure the opening, add 1/2", cut 3/4" material to that length that is 2" wide, screw the sockets flush with the ends of the cleat using pan head screw, insert guides into sockets and screw the front of the guide to the face frame. Inset drawer with front attached and push if flush with the face frame. The guides will be spaced apart at the right distance and all that needs to be done is to nail the cleat to the back of the cabinet. This system gets you really close to the final setting and once all is ajusted, put the rest of the screws into the sockets and face frame to lock the drawer into place.


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