Drw Guides
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- eCabinets Beta Tester
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Re: Drw Guides
Ben,
Have you tried Hardware Resources? They have a house brand undermount that works great for about $11.00 a pair if purchased case qty.
Have you tried Hardware Resources? They have a house brand undermount that works great for about $11.00 a pair if purchased case qty.
Damon Nabors
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Re: Drw Guides
Drw Guides
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- Drawer runners_1.jpg (67.49 KiB) Viewed 7415 times
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- eCabinets Beta Tester
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Re: Drw Guides
Drw Guides
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- Senior Member
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Re: Drw Guides
For side mount full extensions I found a system that works for me.
I attach the slide to a strip of 1/2 in ply as wide as the slide (1.75") and as long as the inside of the cabinet is from the back to the inside of the face frame (usually 22.75" using 1/2" for the backs). I overhang the front of the slide by the thickness of the face frame (.75") so the end of the slide is flush with the face of the face frame.
Next I build "pockets" for the back end of the strips to slide into and attach them to the back of the cabinet. By notching a board, aligning the bottom of the notches with the tops of the mid rails. The notches are slightly larger than the strips the slides are attached to.
The slide assembly then slips into pockets created by the notched board and float. The front of the slide an either be attached to the face frame of left loose as well.
Using this method I do not have to climb into the cabinet to attach screws to the walls and partitions any more. All the building and assembling is done outside the cabinet and I am only inside the cabinet long enough to nail, staple or screw the notched board to the back with nothing to align.
If this description does not make sense I can take a picture and show you what I mean.
I attach the slide to a strip of 1/2 in ply as wide as the slide (1.75") and as long as the inside of the cabinet is from the back to the inside of the face frame (usually 22.75" using 1/2" for the backs). I overhang the front of the slide by the thickness of the face frame (.75") so the end of the slide is flush with the face of the face frame.
Next I build "pockets" for the back end of the strips to slide into and attach them to the back of the cabinet. By notching a board, aligning the bottom of the notches with the tops of the mid rails. The notches are slightly larger than the strips the slides are attached to.
The slide assembly then slips into pockets created by the notched board and float. The front of the slide an either be attached to the face frame of left loose as well.
Using this method I do not have to climb into the cabinet to attach screws to the walls and partitions any more. All the building and assembling is done outside the cabinet and I am only inside the cabinet long enough to nail, staple or screw the notched board to the back with nothing to align.
If this description does not make sense I can take a picture and show you what I mean.
Lamar Horton
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
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Re: Drw Guides
Lamar,
It makes sense but a picture would be nice if that's ok.
John
It makes sense but a picture would be nice if that's ok.
John
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Re: Drw Guides
I have a method close to Lamar's in which you mount the slides to a frame with a jig on the work bench instead of inside the cabinet. It makes adjusting the drawer fronts a breeze. I call it slide frame construction which basically is a U shaped frame that keeps the slides parallel both horizontally and vertically. It makes the cabinet a little heavier and uses a little falloff but the advantages of not adding furring strips and screwing inside the cabinet a big plus for this old man. The frame consists of three pieces of ¾ plywood falloff that is 3 ½ wide: the two sides which are the same length as the deck minus 1/16” and the back which is exactly the same width as the drawer opening. I mount the full ext. or euro slides to the centerline of the sides of the frame on a jig. I then pocket screw or nail the two sides to the back making a U shaped frame which can be inserted into the cabinet and screwed to the ff with the front screw in the slide. I use a kreg clamp to hold the opposite side in place while attaching the first side. See photos. So basically now, the frame is only connected to the ff and the back is free floating. Now insert the drawer with the drawer front already attached. I use a clamp to clamp the drawer front to the ff and then screw threw the back of the cabinet into the back of the slide frame to anchor the slides. I then remove the drawer and pocket screw the sides of the slide frame to the back of the ff. Works perfect every time.
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- euro slide detail
- Slide-frame-mounted.jpg (13.84 KiB) Viewed 7307 times
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- using kreg clamp to hold slide in place
- slide-frame-fe.jpg (78.29 KiB) Viewed 7306 times
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- detail of drawer box and slide frame on bench
- sf5.jpg (33.67 KiB) Viewed 7307 times
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Re: Drw Guides
One more photo of the jig I use for both full ext and euros. The euro side is mounted to the centerline of the frame but attached at the bottom of the opening like normal. With full ext slides I mount the male piece to the centerline of the drawer box. I take the measurement from the bottom of the box to the centerline and then add 1/4", let's say that measurement is 3 1/4". I then measure up from the bottom of the drawer opening 3 1/4" and mark for the centerline of the slide frame. Since I have started using this method I have had perfect sliding drawers almost every time.
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- Marking centerline of frame
- sf-marking.jpg (26.89 KiB) Viewed 7302 times
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- attaching slide using jig
- P1010008-008.jpg (33.71 KiB) Viewed 7303 times
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Re: Drw Guides
Steve, I have done it your way also but found that getting the frame inside the cabinet too much trouble. I also found that if you rest the slides on face frame there is no need to attach to the front especially if you screw the slide to the face frame.
I will try to get some pictures today when I am at the shop.
I will try to get some pictures today when I am at the shop.
Lamar Horton
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
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Re: Drw Guides
Here are the pictures of my method. Instead of using a solid piece of lumber I used strips of plywood.
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- DSCF0002.JPG (120.96 KiB) Viewed 7245 times
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- DSCF0001.JPG (134.39 KiB) Viewed 7246 times
Lamar Horton
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
http://www.jlcustomcabinets.com
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- New Member
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Re: Drw Guides
If your partions and wall ends are set back from the face frame opening, measure the opening, add 1/2", cut 3/4" material to that length that is 2" wide, screw the sockets flush with the ends of the cleat using pan head screw, insert guides into sockets and screw the front of the guide to the face frame. Inset drawer with front attached and push if flush with the face frame. The guides will be spaced apart at the right distance and all that needs to be done is to nail the cleat to the back of the cabinet. This system gets you really close to the final setting and once all is ajusted, put the rest of the screws into the sockets and face frame to lock the drawer into place.