mitered or v nailer?

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ScotAcree
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mitered or v nailer?

Postby ScotAcree » Mon, May 05 2008, 10:47AM

Does anyone know of an air nail gun to attach face frames to the carcass with a type of wedge shaped nail?


Scot Acree Woodworking,LLC

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Kerry Fullington
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Kerry Fullington » Mon, May 05 2008, 6:19PM

Scot,

I think a lot of shops use the Senclamp nailer. I have never used one but have seen lots of comments on the web.

Kerry

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby ScotAcree » Tue, May 06 2008, 5:34AM

Does anybody use the Senclamp nail gun or have any opinions on how it works?Looks like it costs about $450,which if it works well it would be worth it.

Thank you for getting my research started Kerry.

Scot

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Damon Nabors » Tue, May 06 2008, 9:14AM

Scott, I have never used one, but have seen problems show up. A lot of the shops around here use them to build their face frames and attach them to the cases. The problems I have seen show up: when attaching two cabs side by side and maybe having to pull a little gap out, one of the styles pull loose or the joints open up. I have seen this a lot. I personally use pocket screws when they are not going to show. If it is the end of a run of cabinets. Just glue and clamp them on. Titebond will set up pretty quick.

My2 cents

Damon
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby ScotAcree » Tue, May 06 2008, 9:24AM

Damon,

Do you think they would still pull apart if I am applying glue into the blind dado?I apply finished F.F.'s to the carcass,trying to not have to use clamps until the glue dries.I pocket screw currently as well.

Scot

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Kerry Fullington » Tue, May 06 2008, 9:38AM

What do you guys do about the pocket holes showing on uppers. I have had complaints about them showing when you open a door on mid stiles and I have had complaints about them being dust collectors on the top as well as complaints that you can seem them on decks when you are sitting down.

Kerry

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Mike Seisser » Tue, May 06 2008, 11:03AM

Kerry Fullington wrote:What do you guys do about the pocket holes showing on uppers. I have had complaints about them showing when you open a door on mid stiles and I have had complaints about them being dust collectors on the top as well as complaints that you can seem them on decks when you are sitting down.

Kerry



If it's a persistent complaint I would take the time to plug the holes on the mid stiles. Wood plugs, that is. As far as seeing them on the decks, a 1/4" panel applied either at construction or installation would cover them.

Otherwise, tell them to dust more often - no one likes a messy kitchen.
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Perry Pravettone » Tue, May 06 2008, 11:48AM

Kerry Fullington wrote:What do you guys do about the pocket holes showing on uppers. I have had complaints about them showing when you open a door on mid stiles and I have had complaints about them being dust collectors on the top as well as complaints that you can seem them on decks when you are sitting down.

Kerry


Kerry, We use wood plugs. We make our own but you can buy them here http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.ACC ... egory=1823
I couldn’t find any on Thermwoods site.
I’ve seen plastic ones also. We only fill the ones on a Peninsula upper. We never had any complaints not filling them on wall cabinets.
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby ScotAcree » Tue, May 06 2008, 12:33PM

I also use the 1/4" plywood on desk areas where you will sit and look up at the upper cab.

Is there anyone else that uses the Senclamp nailgun ,maybe it would hurt the integrity of the cabinet attaching the carcass to the f.f.'s in this manner until the glue sets up?


All opinions appreciated.

Scot

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Damon Nabors » Tue, May 06 2008, 1:17PM

Depending on the price range of the job, I will clean up the undersides so to speak. I like to make my decks extend beyond the sides to cover up the end grain of the side. By doing this you can place your pocket screws to hold the deck, top, and front style. The finished end panel will cover the screws. I normally do not place any pocket screws in my decks or tops. I use 23g micro pins and titebond II glue. The pins are easy to fill and the titebond will more than hold the decks from sagging. With the Pocket screws in the styles the FF will not fall off.

Now I just need to figure out how to get the sides to blind dado into the top and deck when building a cabinet in this manor. Makes for a clean appearance on the underside without the end grain showing.
Attachments
side view 3.jpg
side view 3.jpg (33.15 KiB) Viewed 10707 times
side view 2.JPG
side view 2.JPG (37.04 KiB) Viewed 10705 times
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Damon Nabors » Wed, Jun 04 2008, 7:56PM

Well, after playing around with the software I figured out how to blind dado the parts I wanted. This is the best solution I have found to cover the pocket hole's. I am currious if anyone else builds thier cabs this way.
Pocket hole 1.jpg
Pocket hole 1.jpg (138.22 KiB) Viewed 10562 times
Side with Pocket holes
Pocket hole 2.jpg
Pocket hole 2.jpg (141.06 KiB) Viewed 10561 times
finished end panel covers the pocket screws

Notice also that there is no end grain from the plywood sides showing. Makes for a clean underside when finished.
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Pocket hole 3.jpg
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Damon Nabors » Wed, Jun 04 2008, 8:00PM

One more picture to show the underside. The only end grain showing is the end panels. It also looks better without having a side and then another end panel doubled up on the side, just looks too thick in my opinion.
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pocket hole 4.jpg
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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby Rick Palechuk » Thu, Jun 05 2008, 7:19AM

Nice and clean Damon.

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Re: mitered or v nailer?

Postby ScotAcree » Fri, Jun 06 2008, 6:36AM

I thought having 2 sides back to back when looking up looks to thick on mine as well.Yours does look very nice.
Scot


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