Cab # on parts when printed

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Forrest Chapman
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Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Forrest Chapman » Fri, Feb 25 2011, 2:49PM

Hey guys, i rarely use labels but instead write the cab # on the parts. It would be nice to display the cab # on the parts on the printed sheets instead of the generic 1 thru whatever. As of now i transfer the cab # onto each part on the cutout sheet so i can quickly reference it.
Thanks,
Forrest

Michael S Murray
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Michael S Murray » Fri, Feb 25 2011, 5:40PM

Hi Forrest, do you have a reason for not using labels.
I do know they can get salty, but is there another reason?

Do you also mark edge banding by hand?

Just curiuos to know if you have a better way....
My only reason that I might like to avoid labels is the time we waste taking them off exposed areas after assembly.
we leave the one on stretcher to identify cabinet for installer..
Mike Murray
Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface
mike@versatilecabinet.com
http://www.versatilecabinet.com

Forrest Chapman
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Forrest Chapman » Sat, Feb 26 2011, 10:23AM

Hi Michael, there are a few reasons namely the time it takes to apply, to remove, if I am doing stain grade to clean the glue residue, and sometimes the label will get peeled off by accident. So I use a marker and put the number in an inconspicuous area. The guys get a printout of the batch or layout with cab # and away they go. As far as edgebanding goes my guys know where to apply it. The parts are separated coming off the router if they need different EB and a material sheet is sent along with them. Not exactly monkey proof but we have very few problems. As of now the machine operator will write the cab numbers on the nested parts of the printout so he can just look at the part and transfer the number. This is all done while the machine is cutting the next sheet and after the last sheet is cleared. When we are really moving we have about 30 seconds down time between sheets.

I also would like to see a ghost image in red of (flip ops) first on the printout as a secondary visual that we can expect to flip that sheet. Sometimes it is better to do the flips on a certain side and if we are not watching the screen closely we miss it. (Yes I know that the screen tells you to load the sheet backside up but to be honest we don't watch the screen that much unless we are having problems). When we pull the cut sheet off the router we lay the printout on the parts and can see the next printout before we do anything else. As of now we go through looking for the green flipops and put a red mark on the page. We are less likely to miss that then the sometimes invisible green areas. We have found the flip ops first feature to be a very valuable tool and this would add a little more refinement to it.

Thanks,
Forrest

Michael S Murray
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Michael S Murray » Sat, Feb 26 2011, 11:05AM

Thank Forrest, I understand, the labels can be work, we also mark stain grade work rather than label, learned that from a cutting customer complaint.....
I have not used the flip op first feature, I usually jump on new features but decided to see how this one turned out. Sounds like it is working well for you.
Looks like it is time for me to investigate and start using the feature.
We try to avoid flip ops, because of accuracy problems, mostly in areas like blind dado's
Sometimes they cant be avoided though, one area that comes to mind is melamine drawer boxes. I specifically dowel them because you cant make the joint without a flip op, or at least the way I want to make them.

Have a good day Forrest..
Mike Murray

Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface

mike@versatilecabinet.com

http://www.versatilecabinet.com

Michael S Murray
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Michael S Murray » Sat, Feb 26 2011, 11:09AM

Forrest, what would you think of marking the parts with the router?
I know of a few shops with other machinery/software that use a small tool and engrave each part, although I dont think it marks edge banding.

I really like the edge banding on the labels though, both for location and specifing what banding.
Mike Murray

Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface

mike@versatilecabinet.com

http://www.versatilecabinet.com

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Neville Bastian
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Neville Bastian » Tue, Mar 01 2011, 6:53PM

Hi Guys,
I'd love to live without labels as I spend $250.00 a box delivered where I am. Thinking about getting some posted out from the states for a cost exersise. Where do you guys purchase yours?
As far as marking the edging faces I have a friend who puts a dot in his connecting fitting hole which is like a clock face so the 3,6 & 9 o'clock positions is where edging goes. I don't use those fittings so could only use it in the hinge hole. Like you the label can tell a great deal of info if you have a number of different client kitchens in my case flowing through the system. If you are doing other standard type of work it may not be required.Lucky you.
My friend has his machine apply the labels as well which saves him a lot of time and they get positioned where he wants them every time. I think Thermwood tried this but had issues.

All the best

Neville
Neville Australia

Jason Stephenson
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby Jason Stephenson » Thu, Mar 03 2011, 8:27PM

hi neville

We use labels aswell and found that they were getting expensive aswell and we source another company and the boss seems happy with the price they are called label city the website is abelcity.com.au they actually work out not even to be 1cent a label hope this helps you
Jason

JohnLashuay
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Re: Cab # on parts when printed

Postby JohnLashuay » Mon, Mar 14 2011, 11:51AM

Michael S Murray wrote:I have not used the flip op first feature, I usually jump on new features but decided to see how this one turned out. Sounds like it is working well for you.
Looks like it is time for me to investigate and start using the feature.
We try to avoid flip ops, because of accuracy problems, mostly in areas like blind dado's
Sometimes they cant be avoided though, one area that comes to mind is melamine drawer boxes. I specifically dowel them because you cant make the joint without a flip op, or at least the way I want to make them.


Michael, we have had great success with the flip op function. In the CN you can set it to flip the whole sheet also have it trim 2 edges so that placing the sheet in your G901 position will be very accurate.

We have been cutting blind dado drawer boxes with great success.

-John
Rylex Custom Cabinetry & Closets
http://www.rylexonline.com
Thermwood CS 43


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