clamping spoilboard instead of vac

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Ray Jorgensen
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clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Ray Jorgensen » Thu, Jan 05 2012, 9:51AM

I have a project now where I throw a second sheet of MDF on top of the spoil board - this is my jig - the stock is screwed to this jig.. When full the cycle time is 12 hrs. Having the vac pump run that long really gets the shop hot!!!!

Has anyone figured out a way to "clamp" "bolt" etc. something like this down so you don't use the vac?

Thanks

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Brad McIntosh
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Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Brad McIntosh » Thu, Jan 05 2012, 10:06AM

Before possibly drilling and tapping the table in order to bolt this fixture down....

Have you considered venting the pumps exhaust to the exterior? We have some customers here in Canada that will vent outside in the warm summer months and then disconnect the piping in the colder months so that the pump can help to heat the shop. If setup correctly, you could switch between interior and exterior venting in less than a few minutes.

Just a thought....

Ray Jorgensen
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Joined: Sat, Jul 29 2006, 9:11AM
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Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Ray Jorgensen » Thu, Jan 05 2012, 10:22AM

Yes, Not long after I got the machine I figured out need to get some of the heat away and have a system to vent outside. It's the heat coming from the pump itself that is causing the problem. How thick is the pan on the vac. Will it work to drill and tap?

Thanks

Michael S Murray
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Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Michael S Murray » Sat, Jan 07 2012, 11:03AM

Ray, I haven't had my spoilboard off in a couple years, but arent the plastic standoffs under it already tapped into the pan?

Could you pull some of those and use a wood dowel spacer with a hole through it, and then some plastic or aluminum bolts?

I have a job doing something like your talking about. We put the 4x8 jig on and screw it to the spoilboard with 4 screws in the corners, then use 4 hand clamps to clamp the whole thing down to the table.

A couple Years ago, I put on a fresh spoilboard, turned on the pump and then siliconed all the way around the spoilboard and the table.
I get very little movement and I believe it helps with Vacuum pressure.

It sure is nice to run the router without listening to or paying for the pump to run.
Mike Murray
Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface
mike@versatilecabinet.com
http://www.versatilecabinet.com

Ray Jorgensen
Senior Member
Posts: 199
Joined: Sat, Jul 29 2006, 9:11AM
Company Name: Classic Custom Wood
Location: NC Iowa
Contact:

Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Ray Jorgensen » Sat, Jan 07 2012, 2:17PM

Michael,

Hadn't thought of the standoffs - I'll have to look into that -it'd sure made it easy to do what I want. The plastic bolts are also a good idea - just in case I have a dumb s--- attack.

I haven't had my spoil-board off in 6 years. I made a cut out where the rotary goes and just tape the joint when the cut out is back on.

Silicone around the spoil-board - GREAT idea - I'll do that. I know I'm losing vacuum around there.

Thanks a lot.

Michael S Murray
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Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Michael S Murray » Mon, Jan 09 2012, 8:23AM

I havent had my rotary back on since we installed the machine, not a smart business decesion on my part.
I thought I was the only one that had dumb a_ _ atacks.. :D

Actually, shouldn't say it,buttttt, haven't crashed in several years. :D :D
Mike Murray

Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface

mike@versatilecabinet.com

http://www.versatilecabinet.com

Ray Jorgensen
Senior Member
Posts: 199
Joined: Sat, Jul 29 2006, 9:11AM
Company Name: Classic Custom Wood
Location: NC Iowa
Contact:

Re: clamping spoilboard instead of vac

Postby Ray Jorgensen » Thu, Jan 26 2012, 5:11PM

Thought I would post the out come of my clamping solution.

I drilled holes in the jig board - thru the spoilboard - and into the alum pan. Holes are positioned in corners and the middle of each side. 6 holes total. Tapped the pan holes. The holes align so that they fall between the nylon stand offs. Counter sunk the holes so that the nylon bolts heads are recessed. Also counter sunk the holes in the spoilboard and will use shorter bolts with orings to seal good.

Fly cut the 5 X 10 Jig board and after 2 weeks of it being on the table I took the hand held programer and drug a bit across the table a various locations. Still within .005 - not bad.

When I took the jig board off and put the short bolts in found that I was losing vacume thru the countersinks so sealed those with 50/50 mix of wood glue and water and all it well. I can now use it as intended with the vac and no ill effects.

I got a in pound tourqe wrench so that I could replicate the seating of each bolt as it was before flycutting. Should beable to take it on and off and be within tollerance for my job.

I also took your advise - Michael - and sealed the perimiter with silicone - great improvement.

As far as the rotary. I don't know that what I have done with it has paid, but without it I don't know that I wouldn't have had the repeat flat work that has come as a result of the rotary work I did. I do have a possible coming up that if it works out the rotary will deffinatley pay off!

Thanks


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