Drawer Boxes

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Rob Davis
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Drawer Boxes

Post by Rob Davis »

Be gentle with me as I am trying to figure this out.....
We are trying to build our first drawer boxes and while we are experienced with eCabs, this is giving us a headache. We were here talking and I was getting peppered with questions and since I haven't done it before, I am going to solicit your help.

We know it takes a different set of tools and no problem there yet as we think we know how to do that. Where we are having fits is the material to be cut. Do you load 4\" wide S4S boards onto the machine and put them at G52LX and let the machine have at them? Do you buy boards a certain size? Do you glue up bigger panels and load them? Use plywood and band it?

What is making us waver is that there is lots of discussion about using wood (Baltic Birch, Maple, etc) and we assume this refers to real wood. But you buy real wood typically in random widths, so how does the machine nest anything on a 6\" wide x 8' board? If it is all plywoods (sheet goods), we get it.

Maybe sounds like a stupid question but we can admit our ignorance if you're willing to enlighten us.
Forrest Chapman
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Post by Forrest Chapman »

Hi Rob,

What we are refering to is plywood or fibercore. Solid wood can be done with fixturing but is really not the object here. Batching is the key to being cost effective.

Forrest
Rob Davis
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Post by Rob Davis »

Thanks. We are no longer confused.... until we stumble on the next thing!
Michael S Murray
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Post by Michael S Murray »

Hey Rob,
I have actually glued up soft maple blanks 37\" w. run them through wide belt to .625 and then cut dovetail's-works, but really kills the productivity. We are cutting 5/8\" baltic birch and then filling,sanding,rounding over, and spraying after assembly, makes a pretty nice drawer and I havent had a objection yet over soft maple hardwood.
Mike
Rob Davis
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Post by Rob Davis »

Mike,
we make solid wood drawer boxes and make drawer side material in 8' or longer lenghts by running it thtrough our molder. Then we just chop to length, join it, add a bottom and touch up the finish. Pretty easy but a real selling item for our cabinetry. \"Not just any old plywood drawer, when you buy from us you get solid wood that will stand up to whatever you want to toss at it.\" We don't compete with Kitchen Kompact. I am just intrigued by everything Thermwood puts out there and I was thinking of making melamine or MDF drawers for our commercial stuff.
Michael S Murray
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Post by Michael S Murray »

Hey Rob,
Ya I resisted the plywood also, But I will tell you, I can honestly say I like them now. The baltic birch multiply does not stick out like thicker veeneer and when rounded over you really have to look to see it is plywood from up-top. Plus with solid maple and ash that we also use, I have run in to a few drawers that wanted to hang up and have found the problem is sometimes just a touch of warp. We mount the baltic birch dovetail box on a accuride easy close undermount and call it our standard. solid wood gets a $25 per box upcharge. I have put these in our last 15 kitchens and have not yet had a person choose to pay the extra....And I am talking a doctor,two lawyers, a bank president, a very succesful business person, and some of the others were retired people on tight budgett's. I do build all my residential with clearcote maple plywood interiors and top of the line hardware, but what I am finding is that sometimes what is important to us as quality cabinet makers is always not important to our clients, most dont know the difference. Its like the frameless/face frame debate.. Some guys say frameless would never fly in their market, that is all I build, I have found that most dont even now the difference and that they are coming to me because they have seen my work or heard about me from some one who has it.The discussion/ debate rarely ever comes up with my clients. I been at this a while and over the last few yrs. I have decided that I have been building heirloom Quality kitchens and selling them for kitchen cabinet prices. I have decided now is time to start looking at being a little more profitable.. I wont drop down to compete with the home depots, but if I can make a drawer that will hold up just as well, look almost the same, save me a couple bucks, increase production, and make my client happy, so be it!!!!!

Have a good day and enjoy this wonderful weather we have had the last couple days..
Mike
Roger Erismann
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Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

has any one tried pyboo?

Post by Roger Erismann »

I think plyboo maybe a cost effective way to produce lots of drawer parts on a sheet, and have thatreal wood look...
Wood Butcher/Case Maker
Roger Erismann
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Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

has any one tried pyboo?

Post by Roger Erismann »

I think plyboo maybe a cost effective way to produce lots of drawer parts on a sheet, and have thatreal wood look...
Wood Butcher/Case Maker
Roger Erismann
Senior Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

has any one tried pyboo?

Post by Roger Erismann »

I think plyboo maybe a cost effective way to produce lots of drawer parts on a sheet, and have thatreal wood look...
Wood Butcher/Case Maker
Joe Soto
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Post by Joe Soto »

Rodger,
Is that a 3 ply reply? :lol:
DanEpps
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Re:

Post by DanEpps »

Joe Soto wrote:Rodger,
Is that a 3 ply reply? :lol:
A 3 ply rePLY?

I think Roger REALLY likes plyboo :wink:
Roger Erismann
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Sorry

Post by Roger Erismann »

Don't know how that happened
Wood Butcher/Case Maker
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