Is it me?

Rob Davis · Post by **Rob Davis** » Wed, Feb 07 2007, 2:04PM

I can't figure thiso out. Corner wall cabinet, angled front, framed cabinet. I want it to be 12\" from the walls on each side at the front o fthe face frame. I built the cabinet attached and everything I see says 12\" but the machine cut the sides 12.5\" actual and then .25 face frame and my cabinet is 12.75\" from wall and doesn't line up with the rest of the cabinets?
What am I missing here?

And by the way, we put in the shelf pin holes manually as they get put on the outside of the cabinet still.

Daniel Vonderheide · Post by **Daniel Vonderheide** » Wed, Feb 07 2007, 3:12PM

Rob, If you open the cabinet in the cabinet editor and highlight the whole cabinet, you can select the measuring tool to measure the side. Once you do this, you will see that the side is actually 12.5732\". This is because the machine cannot create the miter at the front of the cabinet that you designed, so it gives you the material length needed to be able to put it on there manually. I hope this helps.

Rob Davis · Post by **Rob Davis** » Wed, Feb 07 2007, 3:17PM

Daniel thanks fo rthe reply.. now so I understand it properly, let me tell you what I perceive we need to do and you tell me if it is correct.
We will build a cabinet of this sort and specify the right and left side depths at 11.75\", since the face frame in our usual case adds 1/4\" to the depth. Correct?

Daniel Vonderheide · Post by **Daniel Vonderheide** » Thu, Feb 08 2007, 1:09PM

Rob,

Build your cabinet to size like you did and then add an inset on the front on both sides. You wanted a 12 inch side and you got a 12.57, so you may want to try a half inch inset.

DanEpps · Post by **DanEpps** » Thu, Feb 08 2007, 3:26PM

So, are you applying the face frame without mitering the sides? Doesn't that make for a pretty weak joint between the cabinet and face frame since the frame only touches the corner of the side panels?

Rob Davis · Post by **Rob Davis** » Thu, Feb 08 2007, 4:04PM

Dan, the picture is deceiving...... We use 3/4 stock for face frames and dado in 1/2\" deep so a 1/4 is left. To \"fake out eCabinets\" so we get boxes built correctly and looking correctly without parts superimposing on other parts, we say face frame is 1/4 for display sake and this makes the boxes and renderings come out correct.
On a corner cabinet like this, we dado the frame on a 45 degree angle and apply the frame directly. Side is square and fits in angled dado. Actually because of geometry, we get more than a 1/2\" to grip with. We build face frames mostly like everybody else.

So, is there a way to make this all come out correctly so I don't have to fake out eCabinets a second time for the angled dado? I don't think insetting the front is the answer, but I am no wizard member as the likes of you. (Does flattery work on you?)

DanEpps · Post by **DanEpps** » Thu, Feb 08 2007, 4:52PM

I've got a better picture of what you are doing now--you are saving the step of mitering the end panels since you are dadoing the face frame.

There are two ways to achieve what you want--inset the front edges of the end panels or change the cabinet depth. Both methods will accomplish the same end result.

Personally, I would use insets.

You may have to experiment a little to get the size correct.

Rob Davis · Post by **Rob Davis** » Fri, Feb 09 2007, 8:17AM

Here's my work around - I think it works.
I am going to build angled corner wall cabinets as frameless cabinets and make them 1/4\" narrower and 1/4\" shallower to allow for face frames. For example on a 24 x 24 wall 12\" deep it would be programmed as 23.75 x 23.75 and 11.75 deep. I think it works. The problem with insets is that it has to be done to top, deck, shelves, partitions, .... Great way to make a mistake with a memory like mine!

I sure would like to see the machine cut this out properly though on an angled front.