how do I cut this piece on the router?

Discuss Thermwood 3-axis Machinery, Controller, and Software.

Moderators: Jason Susnjara, Larry Epplin, Clint Buechlein, Rich Kasten

Ryan Hochgesang

Postby Ryan Hochgesang » Fri, Mar 02 2007, 8:46AM

- Double Faced Sticky Tape
- Conventional type (vacuum holddown)
Create groove to place seal material just inside perimeter of part.
Recess (approx. .02-03\") area inside of seal to provide vacuum sup.
Drill hole in spoilboard to supply vacuum to part holding area
- Quick release/Flip style clamps fastened to spoilboard (Be sure cutter not hit)


Just some ideas........

Forrest Chapman
eCabinets Beta Tester
Posts: 1091
Joined: Mon, May 30 2005, 2:26PM
Location: Anderson SC.
Contact:

Postby Forrest Chapman » Fri, Mar 02 2007, 8:49AM

Roger,

If there all the same size blanks then make a cradle on a large backplate/wasteboard and you can even screw some hold down blocks that project out over the workpiece. When the part is cut twist the blocks out of the way and load the next.

Forrest

Nemanja Vujkovic
Senior Member
Posts: 222
Joined: Wed, Feb 21 2007, 1:29PM
Location: STL, MO

Postby Nemanja Vujkovic » Fri, Mar 02 2007, 10:29AM

It still does not work!
Do you have any other sugestions?

User avatar
Roger Erismann
Senior Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

Postby Roger Erismann » Fri, Mar 02 2007, 11:30PM

Okay guys...I apologize for my ignorance of CNC ops....anyways apparently the problem now is locating the part on the table...
we managed to cut some holes out by the CNC operator programing in the cut outs in plaintext....very slow

we could not use the twd's I created because we do not know how to accurately locate the piece on the table(remember we are cutting holes into stock that is allready at a finished size)...

Is there a method for telling the machine where you are locating the piece...maybe I could read up on this in the control nesting manual if you could point me in the right direction....

I have worked independently for so long...I forgot that the big profesional shops do not have computers for cabinet makers(heaven forbid I should ask to check my email)....it is almost like working without a tape measurer....anyways thanks again for your help
Wood Butcher/Case Maker

Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 327
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Postby Joe Soto » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 12:25AM

Rodger, I would two sided tape a piece of mdf larger than the part (the tape is so the mdf does not move while the vac is not on)Nest he part with the outline cut included. Set the z-shift so the outline cut just scratches the top of this piece, run the program once. this will leave a map of where the part needs to be. Screw a fence around the part. Re nest without the outline. Be sure to set z-shift to include the fixture. This should locate and hold the part.
Joe

User avatar
Roger Erismann
Senior Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

Postby Roger Erismann » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 12:55AM

You know what Joe...I was imagining something quite similar to that...however I was hoping there was a software option for this...

Could I run that operation into the waste board?

So we now have a piece of MDF with the outline cut on it...screw down a couple of toggles to a fence butted around the outline and go....does that make sense....If i do this on monday I will post some pics.....

Thanks agin
Wood Butcher/Case Maker

User avatar
DanEpps
Wizard Member
Posts: 5852
Joined: Thu, Jul 28 2005, 10:18AM
Company Name: Dan Epps
Country: UNITED STATES
Location: Rocky Face GA

Re:

Postby DanEpps » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 6:46AM

Roger Erismann wrote:...If i do this on monday I will post some pics...


You'd better stay away from the computer at work, you might get fired :joker:

Mark Hesketh
Guru Member
Posts: 365
Joined: Fri, Aug 25 2006, 9:12AM
Company Name: Paris Kitchens
Country: CANADA
Location: Paris, ontario

Postby Mark Hesketh » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 7:07AM

could you not locate your part by using the G902 fence location and your G902 square? the same way you run flip-ops? just change your fence location in the settings from G901 to G902, and away you go. You'll still need to use the hold-downs or whatever as well, but that should take of your location issues.

keep in mind, i have not actually tried running a finished-size part myself yet, but in theory it should work

Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 327
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Postby Joe Soto » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 7:56AM

Rodger, you sure could use the wasteboard. Its just hard to screw into 1/4\" securely but it will work. Mark's post made me think of something, you might need to undercut your fence slightly, like the G902 fence, for dust buildup.

Mark, that should work also, but if I remember correctly this is a long narrow part so I'm not sure the stock G902 square would be long enough. He could build a longer one.
Joe

Dave Burtchell
Junior Member
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu, Jun 30 2005, 10:04PM

Postby Dave Burtchell » Sat, Mar 03 2007, 12:36PM

Try this,

Place a sheet of 1/2\" material on the table. Hold it down with a couple screws into your spoilboard well away from the part area. In settings, add a 6\" collar around the sheet.This will get your part in away from the edge. Load the part program and write cnc using the smallest bit you can for the outline cut. Before you run the machine, change the radius compensation for the outline cut in the G-code to the opposite one. (Swap G40 for G41?) This will/should cut out the part on the inside of the line. If you tell the machine your bit is smaller than it actually is, say, .230\" instead of .250\", you will cut .01\" outside the line. Using the small bit leaves a smaller radius at the corners to clean up with a chisel. Add some twist-away blocks ala Forrest and drop your part in the hole. Your blanks have to be sized properly. In \"Settings\" set your retract height so your bit clears the hold downs you choose. Check the \"No Outline Cuts\" box. Renest and Write CNC and do a test run in the air (Add a couple inches to your spoilboard thickness).
Sitting here at home, it sounds like this should work. Come Monday morning, it may sound pretty dumb. If it doesn't work, it was Forrest's idea! :oops: If it does work it was mine. :D

Dave

User avatar
Roger Erismann
Senior Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

Postby Roger Erismann » Thu, Mar 08 2007, 11:18PM

sorry no pictures yet....I keep for getting my camera and the ones we did take are stuck on someones camera phone....

Anyways we ended up using a hybrid of davids Idea then the CNC operator made it so we could cut 7 pieeces at a time(with diferent hole patterns on each) 2.5 minutes...our little feat turned some heads...

AS I was looking at the layout on the table I couldn't help but think of machining door jambs with a dadoe for the stop, hinge mortises and a rabbet at the top for the header....maybe we could squeeze 10 per table hmmm...

Or maybe mantel piece columns....we did do a fluted arch door way today

Or maybe...you get the picture(no you didn't) but I will be assembling in the next couple of days and I will post the pic...
Wood Butcher/Case Maker

User avatar
Roger Erismann
Senior Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun, Dec 04 2005, 11:42PM
Location: Sacramento, CA and Rolla, Mo

Postby Roger Erismann » Mon, Mar 12 2007, 10:06PM

with and without the parts; thanks agian for your help
Attachments
1.jpg
1.jpg (10.38 KiB) Viewed 1637 times
4.jpg
4.jpg (13.97 KiB) Viewed 1637 times
Wood Butcher/Case Maker


Return to “Thermwood 3-Axis Machinery”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests