how do I cut this piece on the router?

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Ryan Hochgesang

Post by Ryan Hochgesang »

- Double Faced Sticky Tape
- Conventional type (vacuum holddown)
Create groove to place seal material just inside perimeter of part.
Recess (approx. .02-03\") area inside of seal to provide vacuum sup.
Drill hole in spoilboard to supply vacuum to part holding area
- Quick release/Flip style clamps fastened to spoilboard (Be sure cutter not hit)


Just some ideas........
Forrest Chapman
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Post by Forrest Chapman »

Roger,

If there all the same size blanks then make a cradle on a large backplate/wasteboard and you can even screw some hold down blocks that project out over the workpiece. When the part is cut twist the blocks out of the way and load the next.

Forrest
Nemanja Vujkovic
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Post by Nemanja Vujkovic »

It still does not work!
Do you have any other sugestions?
Roger Erismann
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Post by Roger Erismann »

Okay guys...I apologize for my ignorance of CNC ops....anyways apparently the problem now is locating the part on the table...
we managed to cut some holes out by the CNC operator programing in the cut outs in plaintext....very slow

we could not use the twd's I created because we do not know how to accurately locate the piece on the table(remember we are cutting holes into stock that is allready at a finished size)...

Is there a method for telling the machine where you are locating the piece...maybe I could read up on this in the control nesting manual if you could point me in the right direction....

I have worked independently for so long...I forgot that the big profesional shops do not have computers for cabinet makers(heaven forbid I should ask to check my email)....it is almost like working without a tape measurer....anyways thanks again for your help
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Joe Soto
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Post by Joe Soto »

Rodger, I would two sided tape a piece of mdf larger than the part (the tape is so the mdf does not move while the vac is not on)Nest he part with the outline cut included. Set the z-shift so the outline cut just scratches the top of this piece, run the program once. this will leave a map of where the part needs to be. Screw a fence around the part. Re nest without the outline. Be sure to set z-shift to include the fixture. This should locate and hold the part.
Joe
Roger Erismann
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Post by Roger Erismann »

You know what Joe...I was imagining something quite similar to that...however I was hoping there was a software option for this...

Could I run that operation into the waste board?

So we now have a piece of MDF with the outline cut on it...screw down a couple of toggles to a fence butted around the outline and go....does that make sense....If i do this on monday I will post some pics.....

Thanks agin
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DanEpps
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Re:

Post by DanEpps »

Roger Erismann wrote:...If i do this on monday I will post some pics...
You'd better stay away from the computer at work, you might get fired :joker:
Mark Hesketh
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Post by Mark Hesketh »

could you not locate your part by using the G902 fence location and your G902 square? the same way you run flip-ops? just change your fence location in the settings from G901 to G902, and away you go. You'll still need to use the hold-downs or whatever as well, but that should take of your location issues.

keep in mind, i have not actually tried running a finished-size part myself yet, but in theory it should work
Joe Soto
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Post by Joe Soto »

Rodger, you sure could use the wasteboard. Its just hard to screw into 1/4\" securely but it will work. Mark's post made me think of something, you might need to undercut your fence slightly, like the G902 fence, for dust buildup.

Mark, that should work also, but if I remember correctly this is a long narrow part so I'm not sure the stock G902 square would be long enough. He could build a longer one.
Joe
Dave Burtchell
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Post by Dave Burtchell »

Try this,

Place a sheet of 1/2\" material on the table. Hold it down with a couple screws into your spoilboard well away from the part area. In settings, add a 6\" collar around the sheet.This will get your part in away from the edge. Load the part program and write cnc using the smallest bit you can for the outline cut. Before you run the machine, change the radius compensation for the outline cut in the G-code to the opposite one. (Swap G40 for G41?) This will/should cut out the part on the inside of the line. If you tell the machine your bit is smaller than it actually is, say, .230\" instead of .250\", you will cut .01\" outside the line. Using the small bit leaves a smaller radius at the corners to clean up with a chisel. Add some twist-away blocks ala Forrest and drop your part in the hole. Your blanks have to be sized properly. In \"Settings\" set your retract height so your bit clears the hold downs you choose. Check the \"No Outline Cuts\" box. Renest and Write CNC and do a test run in the air (Add a couple inches to your spoilboard thickness).
Sitting here at home, it sounds like this should work. Come Monday morning, it may sound pretty dumb. If it doesn't work, it was Forrest's idea! :oops: If it does work it was mine. :D

Dave
Roger Erismann
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Post by Roger Erismann »

sorry no pictures yet....I keep for getting my camera and the ones we did take are stuck on someones camera phone....

Anyways we ended up using a hybrid of davids Idea then the CNC operator made it so we could cut 7 pieeces at a time(with diferent hole patterns on each) 2.5 minutes...our little feat turned some heads...

AS I was looking at the layout on the table I couldn't help but think of machining door jambs with a dadoe for the stop, hinge mortises and a rabbet at the top for the header....maybe we could squeeze 10 per table hmmm...

Or maybe mantel piece columns....we did do a fluted arch door way today

Or maybe...you get the picture(no you didn't) but I will be assembling in the next couple of days and I will post the pic...
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Roger Erismann
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Post by Roger Erismann »

with and without the parts; thanks agian for your help
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