maple vanity

Moderators: Jason Susnjara, Clint Buechlein

Post Reply
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

maple vanity

Post by Joe Soto »

Here are a few photos of a weekend(s) project I have been working on. It is made from quilted or tiger maple that I have culled out of the regular lumber we use. All the parts including the moldings and doors and ss top were cut on my Thermwood except for the small rope in the crown. Next will be a mirror frame. This is part of an ongoing project of putting an addition on my own home. The doorway I took the pictures from was the kitchen window not too long ago.
Since the top drawer panel is so small I am going to have to put the pull on the top rail. Should I put all the drawer pulls on the top rails or in the center the taller drawers?
Joe
Attachments
my vanity base.jpg
my vanity base.jpg (219.16 KiB) Viewed 17930 times
my vanity top.jpg
my vanity top.jpg (217.51 KiB) Viewed 17932 times
my vanity.jpg
my vanity.jpg (193.24 KiB) Viewed 17933 times
Michael Rice
Senior Member
Posts: 199
Joined: Sun, Jul 31 2005, 9:45AM
Location: Madison Ga.

Post by Michael Rice »

That's a good looking vanity, Joe. The finish on the quilted maple looks excellent....nice shimmer. Don't know what to tell you on the pulls, just a matter of personal taste, I guess.....I'd ask the wife. :)

Mike
It's what you do, with what you got !
BillHightower
Junior Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat, Dec 24 2005, 5:55PM
Location: Highlands, North Carolina

Post by BillHightower »

Joe,

Beautiful work. I envy your router.

On the pulls. Don't put the pull on the top rail. I would leave the pulls off the top drawers and put pulls on the center of the other drawers.

You might want to consider reducing the rails on the top drawer fronts to 1/2 the size of the stiles. This will increase the size of the raised panel. For example, I make my stiles and rails 2 7/16 inches resulting in 2 in rails and stiles. My top drawer fronts are 6 1/2 in high. On these drawer fronts I reduce the rails to 1 in. This still looks good with the other drawer fronts below the top drawer. I am attaching a picture of some doors and drawer fronts made this way.

Again, your work is too good to put the pulls on the top rails.

Bill
Attachments
Sample Distressed Antique Maple 061009.jpg
Sample Distressed Antique Maple 061009.jpg (66.51 KiB) Viewed 18037 times
DanEpps
Wizard Member
Posts: 5852
Joined: Thu, Jul 28 2005, 10:18AM
Company Name: Dan Epps
Country: UNITED STATES
Location: Rocky Face GA

Post by DanEpps »

I agree with Bill on the pulls...not on the rail.

You might be able to use a door popper latch and have \"press-to-open\" drawers.
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Post by Joe Soto »

Thanks guys, The sink front is a tip out with a finger pull so I could do this to the top drawers too. I have just enough of the same lumber to remake them a little taller and use 1/4in. smaller rails. I just started building my own doors. It's great! I can be selective with the wood and if I needed these today, I could have them in an hour or two.
Joe
BillHightower
Junior Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat, Dec 24 2005, 5:55PM
Location: Highlands, North Carolina

Post by BillHightower »

Joe,

It would take me a whole day to replace those drawer fronts. I am really getting jealous now.

In fact, I just made two doors for a wine cellar the wrong size and plan to remake them today. Wish I had your router. Maybe someday.

Bill
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Post by Joe Soto »

Bill, it's kind of funny, I sometimes forget about the other tools in the shop. The top rails are 2in. the smallest I can use with the Thermwood fixture. Duh... make the drawer front bigger and cut it to size on the Uni-saw :roll: Or spend a bunch of time drawing a part with a grommet hole in the right spot so the router will cut it, when a hole saw would be just fine
Joe
Michael S Murray
eCabinets Beta Tester
Posts: 933
Joined: Tue, May 17 2005, 2:48PM
Location: Logansport, In
Contact:

Post by Michael S Murray »

Thats sharp Joe,
I also learned yrs ago on the pull thing, I now make my minimum drawer front 6.5 wide and use a 1.5 rail on them,anything over 8 I go back to 2.25 rails. makes it a bit stronger for bigger drawer fronts and looks great.
Must be nice to have fun with the router, I only dream off that...
I have my house tore up right now though and plan on doing some nice things to it as I put it back together. I am definetly going to build the entertainment center with the turned corners that thermwood hauls around to the shows. I fell in love with that the first tie I seen it and have been looking for the excuse to build it...
once again, thats a sharp project you posted..
Mike Murray
Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface
mike@versatilecabinet.com
http://www.versatilecabinet.com
Rick Palechuk
Wizard Member
Posts: 1896
Joined: Wed, May 18 2005, 7:54PM
Company Name: Milltech Millworks Ltd.
Country: CANADA
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Contact:

Post by Rick Palechuk »

Did you run those doors on your machine Joe?
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Post by Joe Soto »

Yes Rick all the parts, large rope molding, crown and base. I will be remaking the top drawer fronts tonight. The homeowner is an ass :wink:
Joe
Michael S Murray
eCabinets Beta Tester
Posts: 933
Joined: Tue, May 17 2005, 2:48PM
Location: Logansport, In
Contact:

Post by Michael S Murray »

Thats Funny Joe,reminds me off my Fiance, when I dont get home till 9 or leave sunday morning for work. She says my boss is MEAN!
I was under the impression that the thermwood doors were only capable of 5pc doors, I notice your upper doors have a extra rail, is that supported in the thermwood door or did you use something else?
Mike Murray
Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface
mike@versatilecabinet.com
http://www.versatilecabinet.com
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Post by Joe Soto »

I did the the way you would for presentation using 2 doors, over lapping them. Only I used three, one for the long stiles and the rails, one for the top panel and one for the other. Then I just filtered out the extra parts and ran the center rail on both sides. I havent tried it, but I think this would work for multi-panel bar backs too. It would be great if Thermwood would add this feature to the software.
Joe
Joe Soto
Guru Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
Location: Greensburg, Ky

Re:

Post by Joe Soto »

Joe Soto wrote: I havent tried it, but I think this would work for multi-panel bar backs too. It would be great if Thermwood would add this feature to the software.
Joe
Well I got around to trying a bar back using the 5 piece door fixture. It took a lot of planning and filtering out extra parts but they turned out great .
Attachments
bar backs 002.jpg
bar backs 002.jpg (141.63 KiB) Viewed 17542 times
bar backs 001.jpg
bar backs 001.jpg (150.79 KiB) Viewed 17542 times
Michael S Murray
eCabinets Beta Tester
Posts: 933
Joined: Tue, May 17 2005, 2:48PM
Location: Logansport, In
Contact:

Post by Michael S Murray »

good work joe, just shows you what lying to and tricking your router can get you.........
Mike Murray
Versatile Cabinet & Solid Surface
mike@versatilecabinet.com
http://www.versatilecabinet.com
Jody Wilmes
Guru Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Tue, May 17 2005, 2:06PM
Company Name: Thermwood
Country: UNITED STATES
Contact:

Post by Jody Wilmes »

Niiiice!
Image
Post Reply