Panel front.

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Greg Haw
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Panel front.

Post by Greg Haw »

Trying to design a cabinet with no doors on the front just 4 panels. Is there a way to do this? I am just learning the software Just so you know. I tried overlapping door to get rid of the extra style. That didn't work to well. Any other ideas?
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

Are you trying to get a wainscot effect?
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Greg Haw
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Greg Haw »

Yes that's what I am trying to do
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

It can be done. If the individual grain direction of rails and styles is not a major factor, the easiest way is to model a part in the parts editor. Or you could do an applied molding with a big spider in the middle like this. :?
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Rick Palechuk
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Rick Palechuk »

This is another way to do it Greg. I use a faceframe cab, remove all the parts except the back and frame. Make the frame from 1/4" sheet stock and the back from 3/4". Set the cab depth at 1". Now you can go to the faceframe editor and do whatever you want. Save as a panel, and resize as required. HTH
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

Just got back home and cleaned up the spider webs off the wall. This is the other way of doing it.
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Rick Palechuk »

Artcam?
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

The spider was created in artcam, the rest was just moldings created in ecab.

The last one was just a cab with the geometry drawn on the back of a cabinet and then move the back forward to the front of the face frame.
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Kerry Fullington
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Kerry Fullington »

Greg,

I use the face frame method. Set your face frame to the sizes you want your stiles and rails. I add a negative inset the length of the cope tongue (either 3/8" or 1/2") to get the lengths of the parts correct. I then inset MDF doors (create a sheet material like 3/4" oak lumber) using a negative gap needed to put the panel into the groove (-5/16" for me) and I use a G-Cove tool to create the outside profile of the mdf doors. Now you can add or subtract panels and everything will re-size. This also gives you a correct cut list.

I also created cope and stick profiles to run on the stiles and rails if I am going to do a closeup in presentation view but it is normally too much trouble to do this.

Kerry
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

I found it easier to just apply the geometry to the back of the cabinet and then just move the back forward with a back inset. If you want to re size the cabinet, just change your settings in the constraint manager.
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Kerry Fullington
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Kerry Fullington »

Damon,

Do you get correct cutlist for your panels using the back?

Kerry
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

Kerry Fullington wrote:Damon,

Do you get correct cutlist for your panels using the back?

Kerry

I guess there is a statement in the middle of that question! :)
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Kerry Fullington »

Sorry Damon,

It should have read,

"How do you get a correct cutlist using the back?"

Kerry
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Damon Nabors »

I know Kerry, I am just poking fun. You can't get a cut list.

But if it was me, and I know the opening is say 15 x 24, I am going to know in my head from doing this for so long and knowing the formulas for my shaper tools. That panel is going to be 15 7/8 x 24 7/8, and I can use the cut list for the rails and stiles from the face frame. I just need to add to the length of the rails and any mid styles for the cope and stick profile of my cutter.
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Greg Haw
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Re: Panel front.

Post by Greg Haw »

Well ok , Like I said I am just learning the software and don't fully understand much of what was said. I do thank you all for the replies and education. I am just going through old jobs and redoing them in ecabinets to learn the software. If my drafting skills were better I think I would stick with that. Damon: Do you mean drawing geometry on the back panel as in using the part editor to do so?
Kerry not sure I understand "I add a negative inset the length of the cope tongue (either 3/8" or 1/2") to get the lengths of the parts correct." I assume that is done in construction settings. and I create a slab door and install it inset into the face frame ? Well I will try to figure some of it out, And once again thanks to all
Greg
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