How are you guys installing Euro Upper Cabinets? I've done them many times but they are a pain in the @#%& and I'm looking for a better way. On a long run it is sometimes hard to not get them "racked". Does anyone recommend the French Cleat method or some sort of metal hanger?
I have been using the hafele hangers and Rail for 30 years now and haven't come acroos anything better.
You need to cut your back out at the 2 top corners, screw the 2 hangers in and done. on side cut the rail to your lenght and fix to wall now hang your cabs, join together 2 or more cabs and use the adjusters to make your cabs level and plum. I can't come up with anything easier.
I've used "Camar" hanging rail system for 5 yrs for cabinets and closets. I prefer the "knock in" version over
using screws, which I feel is stronger (after seeing an overloaded cabinet with screws ripping out) I use a Blum hinge machine to drill the 8 or 10mm holes.
David Werkheiser
I also use the Hafele hanging rails and hardware. In addition I put a 75mm wide stretcher at the bottom (behind the back) and sink a screw into the studs to make sure the cabinets won't bounce off the hanging rail in the event of an earthquake.
Joe, The hanging bracket and wall strip I have seen many times in the Hafele catalogue but for the life of me I can't see it now. Would you know the part number by any chance?
Just on a side issue I'm looking at doing some closets seeing things have slowed down dramaticly. Are there any good US online suppliers you forum readers can recommend so I can get some promotional ideas?
Aluminum Rail 290.12.000
Steel Rail 290.11.900
and there are several different hangers
They are on pg 2.184 of my old catalog or you can search Cabinet Suspension Fittings
Hi, Brian. I have always used a wood french cleet with a rabbit and not a bevel for hanging uppers. The rabbit allows the cabinet to come off the wall where needed whereas the beveled cleet does not. As for the metal hanging systems I have never tried them.
We have used both the suspension brackets and the french cleat method and the suspension brackets work best for us because of the ease of adjustment. They have both a vertical and depth adjustment. It works well with those walls that are not square and the other walls that have bumps in them.
Thanks for all the ideas guys. I'm going to install next week. I did not build the cabinets for a hanging system however I did use 5/8" backs and can get to the top and bottom to shim my uppers.
Brian
Here is a method that wasn't dicussed. Put the bases in first then make a spacer that is 18" or whatever space you are doing on your back splash. Then simply put your wall cabs on the spacer and screw to studs. This works in just about any situation you can do a whole kitchen really easy by yourself. I use a 2x6" about 36" long and 2 bottle jacks with another 2x6 on the top of the jacks. Put a level line or laser on the wall jack the spacer to the right height wa la its done.
This also gets you a perfect space between the uppers and lowers.