Profile modeler

[Forrest Chapman]

Hey Guys,

Not sure if this is where to post this but I am wondering has profile modeler been abandoned or are there still improvements being made? I have never used but would like to if some enhancements have been added such as optimizing the tool path. It used to be that even if you used a large tool for hogging and wanted to use a small tool for cleanup in the corners it would still pass over the whole surface with the small tool even though it didn't need to. Does it still function this way? Are there any further cut optimizing features that have been added?

Thanks,
Forrest

[Josh Rayburn]

Hi Forrest,
It still passes over the whole profile with the small tool - meaning that it does not focus only on "corner" cleanup for a door. The areas that can be done with the roughing tool only will only be left alone if you leave 0 with the roughing tool. Has not changed.
jnr

[Ryan Hochgesang]

The profile modeler has not been updated since 3-13-07. You can find details on update history at following link:

http://www.thermwood.com/header/profile_modeler.htm


Release of any further updates are unknown at this time.

[Forrest Chapman]

Thanks Ryan and Josh. Josh what is your overall take on it? I am going to have to purchase it or an upgrade to my cad/cam software and was just wondering if you use it and if there are any problems with it.

Thanks,
Forrest

[Josh Rayburn]

Yes, I've used it extensively. My take is: it's very powerful, but there are certain nuances which make it quirky at times....like any other software I suppose.
I've had a bit of difficulty creating geometry at times, but Scott and I have attempted to narrow those issues down - and we think it might have something to do with the program I'm using to create the geometry in the first place - I use BobCad (an old version).
Overall I would say that it does as advertised.
jnr

[Forrest Chapman]

Why not create the geometry in ecabs? Is it more difficult?

Forrest

[Josh Rayburn]

If you're good at it, give it a go! It's just too difficult for me, I'm a simpleton used to working in autocad, bobcad, and vectorworks. I miss my "snap-to" features and being able to measure things, etc etc....without my basic tools I'm lost

[Will Williamson]

How much does the profile modeler cost ? I personally use the profile modeler a lot for arched molding and other Architectual Details. I have put the profile modeler to its limits more than once .
I have made thousands and thousands of dollars with this software.
Daniel V at Thermwood has pulled me out of the hole many times. Daniel's support is the very best. Without him I would not have the understanding that I have of this Profile Modeler
And yes you can set up the tools so that you can clean up the sharp inside corners without going over the whole surface.
I use Auto Cad to create dxf files for my tools

[Forrest Chapman]

Thanks Will, Can you explain a little more how to set up the tools for minimum passes. I'm concerned mostly about that part of the program. Also does it use a point bit yet or still just ball nose and square?

Thanks,
Forrest

[Will Williamson]

Call me Will 810 395 4418

[Josh Rayburn]

Will,
I must be misunderstanding you - I have not been able to have the profile modeler do a cleanup ONLY on CORNERS of a door profile.
For example, if you had a roughing tool at 1/4" diameter and a 1/8" ball, both leaving 0" then my experience is that the 1/8" ball will only touch the parts of the PROFILE that cannot be reached with the larger tool. However I have not been able to have the smaller tool focus ONLY on the RADIUS left at a 90 degree intersection of the PROFILE - without going around the whole square. Does this make sense? Have you been able to do something different? If so, please share!!!
jnr

[Forrest Chapman]

Josh,

Maybe your misunderstanding me as well. For instance if you have an arch molding with 2- 1/16" radii in the profile with the rest of the radii 1/4" or more and wanted to use an 1/2" ball nose to rough. If the overall molding is 3.5" wide the 1/2" tool will pass over the entire piece not being capable of getting in the smallest radius. Will the 1/8" ball nose then pass into just the part left by the larger tool or will it make repeated passes over the entire profiled surface? If so what settings would make a difference? I guess I am going to call Will also.

Thanks,
Forrest

[Will Williamson]

Josh I never cut doors so I don't know You are correct it will not clean up only. have you tried .25 ball .125 straight endmill?
Forest if you set up a ball followed by a smaller ball with the exact same settings then the second smaller ball will only cut what the larger ball left behind and not travel all the way across the part.
And if you add a small straight cutter as well with the exact same max penatration, step over and stock to leave settings You will have perfect clean moulding
For perfect moldings set max penatration to full depth of knife .02 step over 0,0 stock to leave 1000ipm
vary the step over .04 or 06 to reduce cutting time but surface quality will go down
I usually have one tool setup to rough and two or three set to finish with the exact same settings
balls followed by endmills
Rough setting .75 Ball .375 step over, 0.25 max pen, stock to leave 0.1 ,1000ipm

[Josh Rayburn]

Forrest,
If it's a moulding versus a door, then yes, but there are two different scenarios. The PROFILE on a moulding itself will do what you want - i.e. the area left that cannot be touched by the larger "roughing" tool will not be hit again with the smaller tool, so long as you're leaving 0.0" with the roughing tool.

However, on a door, you've got "mitered" corners to deal with, and you might not want your profile to have a 1/8" radius in those corners (simulating the miter) so you might set your roughing tool to run fast, leave .005", and step over 1/4" or something along those lines. Then you'll have the 1/8" ball (1/16" radius) passing over the entire PROFILE again, and consequently it will sharpen up those "miters" in the corners. It would also depend on what the profile looks like so I'm being general.

Hope this is more clear. You're welcome to call me as well if you want further opinion or information 1-203-653-2281.


Will -
I've tried many settings, and finally arrived at a 3/8" flat to rough and a 1/8" ball to finish. I've been happy with the results. I always have to vary depending on the profile but that's what works best for doors, which is the majority of what I'm doing with it.
jnr