FF M&T and PUZZLE JOINTS, SOLID VS. NEST...

[KyleHepp]

Although enthusiastic about the puzzle joint, I'm leary of using sheet stock for face frames. What degree of success are members having with CNC machining solid wood components with puzzle joint OR mortise and tenon construction?

[Todd Miller]

Although enthusiastic about the puzzle joint, I'm leary of using sheet stock for face frames. What degree of success are members having with CNC machining solid wood components with puzzle joint OR mortise and tenon construction?

Note: With ecabs we use high-flo vacuum hold down system. We pull a vaccum through a 3/4" sheet of mdf. So when using a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood or melamine, the more surface area we have covering the table the better hold-down we have on small parts.

We also have the option to use a "sealed" Conventional board, for smaller parts. In this case we would seal off an area of the table, usually with weather stripping. Then within this closed off area drill a hole through the table. This will centralize the vacuum to the seal off area. Thus, pulling all of the vacuum through the hole, and creating a stronger hold on the part.

Kyle,
Feed speeds and spindle speeds would vary depending on the density of the wood. Also, The best way to attack this, would be to glue up a solid panel, then when cutting leave a .03 skin on the bottom of the panel. Then take to a planner/sander and drop out your parts. By "Drop out", I mean sand off the remaining skin from the bottom of the panel.

You could also fixture your parts individually, using the conventional method discussed above. Hopefully this answers you question..

[Brian Shannon]

Todd,

How about pre-ripped material at typical faceframe widths, then set them into a channel that has been cut into the wasteboard(maybe some holes drilled also into wasteboard). This may also work for Dovetail drawers. Just a thought that I had. Do you think this may work?


Brian

[Todd Miller]

yes.... As they say, there are many ways to skin a cat. This would be your preference. But yes, as long as you have a good seal, you should be fine.

But would have to take into consideration the varying lengths of the finished material sizes. FYI

[KyleHepp]

Channels cut into an MDF sheet??? that would be what I would call a \"jig\" -Ummm... is there anything wrong with that?
First, if we included a 1.5\" thick sheet of trupan into a job to be milled into a jig for holding faceframe parts on end, because that is exactly where I'll want to try this first, how will the router \"index\" to the jig once it is loaded with solid stock parts? I'm supposing you would mill out the jig, then load the FF stock into it without moving anything, and cut your mortises & 75% of your tenons on the very next operations? wait, nix that... unless you can clean tenon shoulders with a magic wand...
what kind of fit tolerances would you use for the width of the channels?
what size/spacing would you bore through the bottoms of the channels for vacuum?
Here's another thought... Does anyone here use \"Beadlock\" joinery system?
For those unfamiliar, you mill your stock with one of the Beadlock router bits (I mill mine with a shop made insert knife on the shaper) the routine is to use the beadlock drilling jig to drill (usually) 3 overlapping holes which comprise the mortises, the stock, CTL, is your loose tenon and they go together well and make a strong joint.
Might this type of system be worthy of consideration for a NEW ecabinetsystems FF joinery option? Because hypothetically, it might be alot easier to produce on the CNC than trying to jig up/flip-op yourself to death trying to produce true M&T.
Only one manual shop operation could simplify this process to completion if one were to setup a dedicated station for end boring.
Any thoughts, opinions or dirty looks???