Forrest or other sharing partners,
I use a 23/32\" Import Birch for my low end cabinets (we don't do Mel). And Domestic for the better quality cabinetry. (We haven't done any specialty woods yet). It seams to me they are consistant at least from a table saws view. And, we dont have too many install issues.
Q. When you say average sheet thickness, How many sheets do you typicaly measure to calculate these averages?
If I were to farm out a job, drop ship the material to the share partner, can he/she handle it from there? Some of my cabinets may have holes bored for slides, some don't. Can these holes in all the cabinets be turned \"off\" so there are no holes in the cabinets?. How will I know that the holes that are bored will fit the slides?
Q. Can these type issues be worked out easily enough without creating a real mess?
Thanks for your imput.
My Production shareing experience
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The issue with the import (China Birch) is that it is never very flat. So when the router cuts smaller parts they can break the vacume on the table. If your tolerances are set up right a little variation wont be an issue. The only reason the CNC is more sensitive is because we tend to have more open tolerances for fit on shop produced parts. Not many people are keeping their dado clearance at .015 on the table saw!
Mike
Mike
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Hi Michael,
I use import birch all the time. From my supplier, I have found the import birch to be more consistent in thickness and having fewer voids. Also, I only use birch finished two sides. So, our material has been very flat. If the panel is unbalanced (finished one side), you will have potato chips.
Due to past issues, I still don't trust changing thickess at twd creation. So, now my procedure is to determine the number of sheets that are required for each job. If it's 20 sheets of 3/4 birch, I will measure about 10 of them through the stack. Not just the top ten or top 3. I then calculate the average and create a new sheet stock for that job/material. ie. 3/4 Jones Birch and input the actual thickness in the appropriate place.
It's more work but better than finding that $4000 of doors don't fit. I don't order a hack at a time either. I order what is required for the next job or next 2 jobs depending on sizes. After measuring thicknesses like this over the last 2 months, I have seen enough variability within a delivery and delivery to delivery to warrant this procedure.
When I cut parts for a someone, I take the esj file and use the same procedure. As for holes, it comes down to what you want. If you want hardware holes for slides, it's a matter of creating a ptn file for that hardware. The only way to turn off those holes is to go into the cabinet editor and disassociate the hole pattern for that particular hardware.
I use the hardware manufacturer's installation drawings to create the hardware hole pattern. Has worked fine for me.
I think these kinds of issues can be worked out. I think it's a good idea to create the correct hardware hole pattern for each hardware you use and have it in place regardless of whether you outsource your cutting or not. It can come in handy for reference. It's not so much a real mess but may take a little time. It would be better if you don't wait until that job has to be cut this week!
Good luck and if I can help more, don't hesitate to email!
GOD Bless,
Chris Robinson
I use import birch all the time. From my supplier, I have found the import birch to be more consistent in thickness and having fewer voids. Also, I only use birch finished two sides. So, our material has been very flat. If the panel is unbalanced (finished one side), you will have potato chips.
Due to past issues, I still don't trust changing thickess at twd creation. So, now my procedure is to determine the number of sheets that are required for each job. If it's 20 sheets of 3/4 birch, I will measure about 10 of them through the stack. Not just the top ten or top 3. I then calculate the average and create a new sheet stock for that job/material. ie. 3/4 Jones Birch and input the actual thickness in the appropriate place.
It's more work but better than finding that $4000 of doors don't fit. I don't order a hack at a time either. I order what is required for the next job or next 2 jobs depending on sizes. After measuring thicknesses like this over the last 2 months, I have seen enough variability within a delivery and delivery to delivery to warrant this procedure.
When I cut parts for a someone, I take the esj file and use the same procedure. As for holes, it comes down to what you want. If you want hardware holes for slides, it's a matter of creating a ptn file for that hardware. The only way to turn off those holes is to go into the cabinet editor and disassociate the hole pattern for that particular hardware.
I use the hardware manufacturer's installation drawings to create the hardware hole pattern. Has worked fine for me.
I think these kinds of issues can be worked out. I think it's a good idea to create the correct hardware hole pattern for each hardware you use and have it in place regardless of whether you outsource your cutting or not. It can come in handy for reference. It's not so much a real mess but may take a little time. It would be better if you don't wait until that job has to be cut this week!

Good luck and if I can help more, don't hesitate to email!
GOD Bless,
Chris Robinson
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Thank you both Mike and Chris,
I appreciate the help. My router knowledge is getting better. I don't have one in my shop YET. But We will. These things from my position are a hudge hurdle.
I would like to try a set, maybe when I redo my kitchen. But, there is that unknown to me. I know Forrest, and I have seen his place in Anderson. Very nice place I might add. He would be my closest e_cabinets systems connection. I just don't want to loose a dump load of money if holes are bored were they are not needed. I could over look a few in my own home (although I really don't want any at all), but not a 30-40K job...
Thanks again.
I appreciate the help. My router knowledge is getting better. I don't have one in my shop YET. But We will. These things from my position are a hudge hurdle.
I would like to try a set, maybe when I redo my kitchen. But, there is that unknown to me. I know Forrest, and I have seen his place in Anderson. Very nice place I might add. He would be my closest e_cabinets systems connection. I just don't want to loose a dump load of money if holes are bored were they are not needed. I could over look a few in my own home (although I really don't want any at all), but not a 30-40K job...
Thanks again.
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