BLIND CORNER FRAMELESS

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Damon Nabors
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BLIND CORNER FRAMELESS

Post by Damon Nabors »

I do not normally do frameless cabinets, so I am not up on the does and don'ts with ecab and frameless. If I have a frameless cab with a blind corner, how do you place the door without it trying to size it the entire opening? I placed a verticle stretcher where the blind corner would end so I would have a place to mount my hinge plate, but when you click on the door opening, it highlights the whole cab. I placed the door with a inset of 24\" so the door would be narrower. Is this the correct way or am I missing something?

Thanks for your help.
Damon :?:
Damon Nabors
Michael Yeargain
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Damon Nabors,

This one was a trick for me and worth a million dollars.

I took a std framed base cabinet and used the left and right stile accordingly. Made it the depth I would want my blind cabinet attaching plus the reveal for the drawer/door collision.

For example: if your cabinet is 24 and you use a 3\" filler to off set the collision then your left/right stile should be 24+3-\"thickness of the end panels\".

I did an inset on the face frame; and inset the top, bottom and \"L or R\"sides.

Added my door and now I have an expandable blind corner.
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Gene Davis

Post by Gene Davis »

I place a partition where needed, using a 3/4\" material labeled \"do not cut\", then place the door.

Adjacent the door's hinge stile, I place a part of boardstock from top to bottom, with the margin appropriate for the blind corner hinge, usually 3mm.
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Michael Yeargain
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Gene,

Can you expand the cabinet without taking it to the cabinet editor? It appears that the board stock you use is a face frame. Does the face frame interfear with the openning of the door? Do you have any complaints about the space between the cabinets that will hide stuff that falls?
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Post by Gene Davis »

You're right. It is a faceframe part. I forgot how I did the workaround, remembering only that I started the hard way with the \"no cut\" partition, then found it easier to use a faceframe member.

The cab resizes, and the door grows or shrinks, but not predictably. Some bug or another.

I've never concerned myself with the gap, but someone with any real worries could tack on some scraps of 3/4 to block things off.

Our installations all use adjustable leg levelers, and the toeboards snap onto the legs with clips, thus are readily removeable. Nice for getting below if you ever have to, or for hiding your stash, or weapons, or whatever.

Anyone losing a bauble into the void can retrieve it quickly, if they remember what to do.
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Gene,

Yo mentioned
adjustable leg levelers, and the toeboards snap onto the legs with clips
What is the source? and do you use detatched toe kick?
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Forrest Chapman
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Post by Forrest Chapman »

Gene,

Your doors may not be resizing because of a user define issue. What you may want to try is changing the door height just slightly when adding instead of letting the software choose the size. (ie. 23.99 instead of 24)


I deal with a blind corner very simply. Since my reveal never changes I place a 27\" faceframe stile (made from sheet stock). Place the doors and drawers with a inset equal to your FF material and whatever gaps you need for spacing. Your gap for the overlay side will need to be a negative number of material thickness minus the amount of reveal to the edge of the end panel.

Hope this helps,
Forrest
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Forrest,

Mine and yours are alike except I inset the left/right stile so the door will overlap instead of inset.
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Michael Yeargain
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Typically I make my blind corners without a drawer. This makes for a simple build and less of a headache with the partition. The partition is only a problem without a router... :lol:

I throw a Pivot/pivot-slide/slide in it and call it a day. 8)
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Steve Dyches
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Post by Steve Dyches »

Thanks for the ideas Michael and Forrest. I'm just getting back to playing around with eCabinets and this thread caught my interest. After seeing your pics I thought I would see if I could draw one the way we build one and be able to change it's size.

I did except one problem. I used a display panel where we place a 1/2\" cover. It doesn't move as the cabinet is resized. Is there a way to lock the panel to a certain part of the cabinet, like the left side, so that when the cabinet resizes the panel keeps positioned. In this case the panel should be indexing from the left side of the cabinet. Thanks for the help already.

Steve
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

Steve Dyches,

Can you use the 1/2\" inside the left,right,top stretcher and deck, Then apply the 3/4\" piece to that?
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Michael Yeargain
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Post by Michael Yeargain »

This cabinet has a 1/2\" left stile and a stretcher locked at the left top and bottom dims.
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George Davidson
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Post by George Davidson »

I am not sure if this will help
It will resize left side is a 1/2\" T door
Here are the door settings
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Steve Dyches
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Post by Steve Dyches »

Thanks guys.

George, I don't understand. (I'm sloooooooow.)

Michael, that worked. I kept it as drawn because i can assemble it faster. But your idea worked. I just assigned negative insets on the stretcher to postion it to suit our build method. Also Michael, I believe you and I may use the same barber. I've seen your business card up on Debra's mirror. Is that right?

Thanks for the help,

Steve
Michael Yeargain
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Re:

Post by Michael Yeargain »

I didn't realize you were in Beech Island untill I went to your web site..

Do you remember Affordable Cabinets on Sanbar Ferry Rd?

Steve Dyches wrote: I believe you and I may use the same barber. I've seen your business card up on Debra's mirror. Is that right?


Steve
N.A. Debra?

By the way, Are you the owner?
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