Two part piehinged door susan corner

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Gene Davis

Two part piehinged door susan corner

Post by Gene Davis »

Struggling with the issue of a pie-hinged door susan corner base (36x36) and the desire to avoid the need to hand-edgeband the two ELL inside corners (deck and top), I got some advice. Here it is.

Make the cab as two cabs, straight-line edgeband all the front edges of each, then join them on site with pocket screws. One large cab with one door, one smaller cab without a L end, door on face. You need to work out your door sizes with a scratchpad and calculator to arrive at the right reveal settings for the doors, given door thickness and bumper pad allowance.

The .jpg below shows the two joined. I need to adjust the width of the front top stretcher in the large half cab, to make sure there is material where needed to attach the top receiver socket of the turntable axle post.

Does anyone do this?
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Two part susan.jpg
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Forrest Chapman
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Post by Forrest Chapman »

Gene,

I would analize it this way. How many do you build? Which has more labor, the edgebanding or handling more parts and pocket screwing?

Forrest
Gene Davis

Post by Gene Davis »

That is a good question, and I really cannot answer it. We design, assemble, and install, but parts are cut through production sharing.

Cabs done two parts such as this, require no handwork edgebanding either by us or the CNC shop (if they'll even do it), require no 22.5 degree bevel rips of the three piece backs, and require no joinery done at 45 back joints.

Two piece cabs would be more readily moved into a job without a problem.

Without the large ELL-pattern top and deck, the parts just might nest more efficiently. I don't know for sure.

Drilling for and driving pocketscrews would go pretty fast, I imagine, but some scab-on cauls might be temp-screwed in place to facilitate registration.

Just my thoughts. What do you think?
Michael S Murray
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Post by Michael S Murray »

I have seen this before and know where it comes from. I think the time to move the parts to the pockethole machine and do that process would be more time than the edgebanding, then theres always that chance that thy dont get pocketholed at all, and then your installer is either doing them with a portable pocket yhole jig, or, more likely scabbing something together. I have also considered this, but decided that the hand banding was less stress and hassle with a rock solid corner cab as a result.

just my opinion of course.
Mike Murray
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Chris Robinson
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Post by Chris Robinson »

Gene, if memory serves, Bob Buckley of True32 fame, suggested this approach. (Pretty sharp guy, btw.) Anyway, I never got around to trying it, although, I really like the idea of not having to manually edgeband the corners.

I think I would make the tops solid for both, just to make sure I had the lazy susan post covered and secure.

If you try it, let us know how it works.

Chris Robinson
The Cabinet Connection
Wytheville, VA 24382
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