Miter front to corner cabinet

Doug Lawson · Post by **Doug Lawson** » Thu, Dec 06 2007, 9:32PM

I am trying to make an upper corner cabinet that has the face frame and sides mitered together using 22.5 deg cut on each. After much hair loss I figured a way to make it work by inseting the end panels by -0.3107 and inseting the face frames by -0.75. That makes the corners line up geometrically. My question is why it works on the left side and not the right side? The right stile goes crazy when I offset it. Can anyone help?

Damon Nabors · Post by **Damon Nabors** » Thu, Dec 06 2007, 10:40PM

Doug, is this what you are wanting?

Damon Nabors · Post by **Damon Nabors** » Thu, Dec 06 2007, 10:49PM

Here is the cabinet if you need it. Basically you want to take a framless cabinet and measure across from point to point and then bring in another cabinet the same width and delete all the parts except the face frame and then align the new face frame to the framless cabinet and it will look correct.

In construction setting there is a tab to click for angled face frame with the miter your looking for but I have never gotten it to work on both sides. The right side always looks crazy. Do it this way and it will look correct.

Doug Lawson · Post by **Doug Lawson** » Thu, Dec 06 2007, 11:25PM

Thanks Damon. I tried that before and the cabinet looks great. The problem is when I add the assembly to my layout I cannot position it for some reason. It does not recognize the edges of the cabinet as the edges. It thinks the edge is off in space somewhere. Did I do something wrong?

Kerry Fullington · Post by **Kerry Fullington** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 8:07AM

Doug,

The proper way to build this cabinet would be to take off all the insets on your left and right sides then add a 1.25\" bottom inset to the deck.
Remove the scribes to your face frame.
Go to corner settings and check the Left and right sides mitered box.
This causes eCabinets to add enough length to the pieces for you to cut your miters.
The miters will not show up graphically.
Kerry

Al Navas · Post by **Al Navas** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 9:54AM

Kerry Fullington wrote:Doug,

The proper way to build this cabinet would be to take off all the insets on your left and right sides then add a 1.25" bottom inset to the deck.
Remove the scribes to your face frame.
Go to corner settings and check the Left and right sides mitered box.
This causes eCabinets to add enough length to the pieces for you to cut your miters.
The miters will not show up graphically.
Kerry

Kerry,

Why is the 1.25" bottom inset necessary?

I have searched, and cannot find the answer to this. Is it necessary to make the whole thing work properly?

The reason I ask: I used a 0.25" inset for this cabinet, and now the side bottoms are flush with the bottom edge of the face frame. But, I have a feeling you were addressing something else...

Al

Kerry Fullington · Post by **Kerry Fullington** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 12:19PM

Al,

This inset will change with your bottom rail and deck thickness measurements.
With a 2\" bottom Rail and a 3/4\" thick deck you must inset the deck 1 1/4\" to flush the deck with the top rail.

This is just easier than applying a negative inset to the ends and back as Doug was doing and accomplishes the same thing.

Kerry

Al Navas · Post by **Al Navas** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 1:15PM

Now I am on the same wavelength, Kerry. Thanks!

Al
http://blog.sandal-woods.com

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 6:30PM

When you extrude any part of the cabinet beyond the cabinet dimensions, they become realy funky and don't want to act right. Kerry's inset is the best way for sure.

Al Navas · Post by **Al Navas** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 8:07PM

.

Michael Yeargain wrote:When you extrude any part of the cabinet beyond the cabinet dimensions, they become really funky and don't want to act right. Kerry's inset is the best way for sure.

Just to follow through:

In the attached image:

1. Should I offset the sides, or the top and deck?
2. What I need: I will be using knife hinges to install the doors; therefore, I need the top and deck to be offset like this.
3. When I profile any of the edges on the sides, and then follow this by making any changes to the offsets, I lose the profiles. Maybe this is what you mean by "funky"?

Al
http://blog.sandal-woods.com

.

Kerry Fullington · Post by **Kerry Fullington** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 8:42PM

Al,

You should be able to stretch or shrink any part of a cabinet without problems. I think that Doug's problem was a corner cabinet face frame scribe problem. (the eCab guys should probably look at this) I like to use as few adjustments as possible is why I choose to inset the deck instead of stretching the sides and back. If you have given insets to a part and start having problems that is always a good place to start looking for a cause.

Kerry

Al Navas · Post by **Al Navas** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 8:46PM

.

Thanks, Kerry. I must remember this when I see something strange going on.

Al
http://blog.sandal-woods.com

.

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Dec 07 2007, 9:15PM

There has already been some issues with the corner cabinets. I do believe the programers are already aware of this .

Doug Lawson · Post by **Doug Lawson** » Sat, Dec 08 2007, 2:14PM

I know I had some problems with the bottom insets, but I wanted to know about mitering the faceframe into the sides. I know that you can go to the corner cabinet option and check miter sides, but I thought there may be a way to manipulate the inset/scribe numbers to make it work without making an assembly. I want a 22.5 degree cut on the sides and face. I know it won't show up graphically. It works on the left side as shown.

Kerry Fullington · Post by **Kerry Fullington** » Sat, Dec 08 2007, 6:47PM

Doug,

Is this what you are after?

I un-checked left and right sides mitered and used a -3/4 left and right scribe on the face frame and a - 5/16 front inset on the left and right sides.

Kerry

Thermwood / eCabinet Systems

Miter front to corner cabinet

Miter front to corner cabinet

Re:

Re: