Need help with custom end panels

[BEN HOLM]

Ok I Do a few furniture pieces like dressers that I build an aplied panel on the sides. Its just like a door but I use but joints with pocket screews on the back, rout out a rabbit on the back and set a 1/4" plywood flat panel stapled to the back of the frame, then I use bead, base cap, or cove aplied to to inside of the frame were it meets the flat panel. Just like an aplied moulding door but faster for me to build. The problem Im having is geting that exact look in eCabs. I found a Conastoga door that was really close and tried to bring it into the part editor but said "The Edited or un-edited body for this part was not found". This is after I assosiated it to the cabinet. I even tried to do it before I assosiated it but still did not work. I just dont want to have to make it out of a ton of pieces by using face frames and a back and then adding custom moulding. Any one have a better Idea? something that I can change the size and use on the next project without redrawing the whole thing.
I konw Im over looking something.
Thanks all,
Ben

[George Davidson]

Did you build your own door
What door was it in Conastoga

[BEN HOLM]

Yes I used conastoga crp-10797.
So for now I just did it the only way I know. Face frames at the size I want and a back panel then add display boards with the profiles that I want on them. If you look close the molding just overlaps itslef instead of a mitter. Not sure if that will be noticable yet.
Here is what I came up with

side panel.hsf

(3.61 MiB) Downloaded 590 times

side panel.jpg (10.42 KiB) Viewed 11002 times

[Gary Puckett]

Ben,

Here is a TW 10 Is this what you need

Gary

[George Davidson]

I made that door up to size and then put it on the Cabinet

[BEN HOLM]

Yes that great. BUT. What I'm trying to get is:
See in your picture that the left rail of the door buts up to the back of the face frame. So when its all sanded and stained/painted that left rail of the door looks 3/4" bigger then the right. And for the top and bottom I put like a cove molding at the top and a bulnose at the bottom both about 3/4" thick. So after I put those on then the top and the bottom of that applied door look to small by 3/4". I need to beable to take that door into part editor and add 3/4" to top and bottom and cut the one end that buts the face frame down by 3/4" so after all done all the reviels are the same.
I can get this by using face frames from another cab but was hoping for a way to do it with an actual door. Because some times I do order a custom door to aply on the side that matches the doors/drawers on the face of the cab.

In this picture you see I have my aplied end panel with my moldings top and bottom and butted up to the back of the face frame and all reviels are the same.

dresser side.jpg (45.55 KiB) Viewed 10899 times

[George Davidson]

Door making

[George Davidson]

Doors

[Gary Puckett]

George,

How are you getting a Conestoga door where you can control the styles and rails. I can only do that with a Thermwood door

Gary

[Kerry Fullington]

Ben

You can create a cabinet using sides, top and deck made of a material the thickness of your bead and a back material the thickness of your panel. Use insets and Outside scribes to position all of these and you will have a panel that can re-size. If you change the width of your top and bottom rails or your stiles you will have to adjust the Scribes to position your bead.

end_01.jpg (23.91 KiB) Viewed 10885 times

You can profile the edges of the sides, top and deck to give the appearance of a true bead. I also placed insets on the sop and deck so they will be the proper length when mitered.

end_02.jpg (40.91 KiB) Viewed 10885 times

Kerry

[George Davidson]

It is just like Kerry
You can re-size the end panel then re-size the trim

[Kerry Fullington]

Ben,

I have been doing something similar for my end panels. The only difference is that I use a door inset for the panel instead of a flat panel.

PICT0001.JPG (53.51 KiB) Viewed 10856 times

I build a face frame the build a door with the same 1/2" overlay as my other doors. I then cut a 1/2" rabbet on the face side of the door 1/2" deep. this allows me to place the door in the face frame from behind and leave a 1/4" deep reveal. I then add a bead or one of several panel moldings to complete the panel. This provides another layer of depth to the panels which I like.

[George Davidson]

Kerry I like that look of depth

[BEN HOLM]

THATS IT KERRY!
That is what I was looking for! So hard to get your mind to think outside the box like that sometimes. haha
Thanks a lot all for your quick replies, very helpful!

BEN