MDF Doors
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- Brian Shannon
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Joe,
Thanks for the info.. That's pretty much what I'm doing exept for the 2\" Z-shift. I also had several tools in my tool group. Are you doing this(2\") because Profile Modeler is writing CNC code too deep and it must be compensated ? Are you changing it in that code or before the CNC code is writen in Profile Modeler? Ryan said that soon they will release an update so we can run MDF doors in RN.
Brian
Thanks for the info.. That's pretty much what I'm doing exept for the 2\" Z-shift. I also had several tools in my tool group. Are you doing this(2\") because Profile Modeler is writing CNC code too deep and it must be compensated ? Are you changing it in that code or before the CNC code is writen in Profile Modeler? Ryan said that soon they will release an update so we can run MDF doors in RN.
Brian
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- Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
- Location: Greensburg, Ky
Brian,
No, I add the 2\"in the cnc code to give me a chance to see if everything is ok, then change it back. It has been right since the update. Nesting would be great, I did a job of 60 3 pass doors with v4, nested the slabs then one at a time using custom tools= 90 tool changes.
Not counting the time to do 90 profiles in the editor.
Joe
No, I add the 2\"in the cnc code to give me a chance to see if everything is ok, then change it back. It has been right since the update. Nesting would be great, I did a job of 60 3 pass doors with v4, nested the slabs then one at a time using custom tools= 90 tool changes.

Joe
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Jeff,
You dont have to. I did to be sure everyting was ok, I could use any number but 2\" gives me a few milli seconds to hit the e-stop if i needed to. ( I thought this was better than bondo to keep air from leaking under the table.
)Then set it back to .985 in my case because my wasteboard = .235.
Joe
You dont have to. I did to be sure everyting was ok, I could use any number but 2\" gives me a few milli seconds to hit the e-stop if i needed to. ( I thought this was better than bondo to keep air from leaking under the table.

Joe
- Brian Shannon
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All is working well now. When I upgraded to 1.2 I chose \"Modify\" instead of \"Repair\" and it did not load the upgrade like I thought it did. Mine chose to cut the whole thing with the 1/8\" end mill. Nice sharp miters. The surface is a little fuzzy. Is there a better material for paint grade doors? Rangerboard or Extira maybe?
Brian
Brian
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Brian,
What are you using for tooling and how do you set up your tool sets for mdf in the modeler?
Ranger board is good quality but you need to ask for high IB or high grade internal bond. This product is superior to cheaper mdf's. Also when you tool up for production and you want to buy pcd (diamond) you need to get 3/4\" shanks for less vibration and reduced flex. I have both 3/4 and made the mistake of buying 1/2\" and can tell a noticable difference.
I anticipate hearing your experiance with the doors.
Forrest
What are you using for tooling and how do you set up your tool sets for mdf in the modeler?
Ranger board is good quality but you need to ask for high IB or high grade internal bond. This product is superior to cheaper mdf's. Also when you tool up for production and you want to buy pcd (diamond) you need to get 3/4\" shanks for less vibration and reduced flex. I have both 3/4 and made the mistake of buying 1/2\" and can tell a noticable difference.
I anticipate hearing your experiance with the doors.
Forrest
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Brian,
Glad to hear you got it working! You can hit the reverse tool path button to get rid of the fuzz, but the parts that arn't fuzzy now will be. Better board will really help, I have had good luck with Plum Creek 2 and Excell+ but have heard Ranger double refined is good also. I will see if I can find the hi IB. Its worth a few cents a foot not having to sand.
Forrest,
Are you cutting a lot of doors? If so are you using Panelmatrix?
Joe
Glad to hear you got it working! You can hit the reverse tool path button to get rid of the fuzz, but the parts that arn't fuzzy now will be. Better board will really help, I have had good luck with Plum Creek 2 and Excell+ but have heard Ranger double refined is good also. I will see if I can find the hi IB. Its worth a few cents a foot not having to sand.
Forrest,
Are you cutting a lot of doors? If so are you using Panelmatrix?
Joe
- Brian Shannon
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Hey Joe,
I do cut alot of doors for myself and others. I am currently using Cabinet Vision for this but have looked into Panelmatrix as well. With CV you can produce a door and then batch any size so it is fairly proficiant. I hope it will be this easy in Ecabs. I am mainly concerned that if I have dedicated tools that the program won't choose a smaller tool and try to carve the pattern. I will be at the show all 4 days and hope to get alittle demo for this.
Forrest
I do cut alot of doors for myself and others. I am currently using Cabinet Vision for this but have looked into Panelmatrix as well. With CV you can produce a door and then batch any size so it is fairly proficiant. I hope it will be this easy in Ecabs. I am mainly concerned that if I have dedicated tools that the program won't choose a smaller tool and try to carve the pattern. I will be at the show all 4 days and hope to get alittle demo for this.
Forrest
- Brian Shannon
- eCabinets Beta Tester
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 10:50PM
- Location: Los Alamos, CA
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- Guru Member
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- Joined: Thu, May 19 2005, 7:50PM
- Company Name: Fancyridge Wood Products LLC
- Location: Greensburg, Ky
Re:
Just wondering if that includes other parts as well as doors? I remember watching some crown molding being nested on a sheet of mdf while I was at Thermwood.Ryan Hochgesang wrote:Brian,
Soon to be released, Profile Modeler will be a part of control nesting as I have told Jeff.
Thanks,
Joe
- Jason Susnjara
- Thermwood Team
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Hi Guys,
You want to use an MDF material that is sealed on both sides depending on how you are going to paint the door. We use 48 pound density Norboard. For our finishing we have to spray an edge filler on the machined surfaces so that the paint did not soak into the board. WE forgot to do this on a piece of trupan (not sealed) and when we got to the basecoat, it just soaked in and we had to sand it and reapply the basecoat until it quit soaking into the wood.
You want to use an MDF material that is sealed on both sides depending on how you are going to paint the door. We use 48 pound density Norboard. For our finishing we have to spray an edge filler on the machined surfaces so that the paint did not soak into the board. WE forgot to do this on a piece of trupan (not sealed) and when we got to the basecoat, it just soaked in and we had to sand it and reapply the basecoat until it quit soaking into the wood.
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- eCabinets Beta Tester
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- Joined: Mon, May 30 2005, 2:26PM
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Hey Guys,
Just a little tip for mdf doors. If you have fuzzing after using your bits for a while you can use wood glue mixed 50% with water and apply with a brush or spray then sand after 30 minutes. This actually seals the cut surface very well and allows for the first coat of undercoater to go on smooth.
Most (door grade) material is sealed on both sides and looks like its waxed.
I also use white one side when I have a white interior.
Forrest
Just a little tip for mdf doors. If you have fuzzing after using your bits for a while you can use wood glue mixed 50% with water and apply with a brush or spray then sand after 30 minutes. This actually seals the cut surface very well and allows for the first coat of undercoater to go on smooth.
Most (door grade) material is sealed on both sides and looks like its waxed.
I also use white one side when I have a white interior.
Forrest