Please explain to me how I should work this out now..ie what width is used for the board stock?
Just as a last comment...This forum is like a drug to me...If I don't get a chance to read it EVERY day, I get withdrawal symptoms!
Paul Ellis
Board feet? i am stumped
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Paul Ellis
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Board feet? i am stumped
Someone must please help me. I loaded 5.1 and then loaded a job that I am busy with, did the nesting then opened the cost sheet. The price for the job more than halved. I then had a look at the price of my board stock and saw that you cannot input the width for the board stock. My question is - when price per board feet is used, is the board a specific width? Our solid wood is sold per cubic meter. Previously I calculated a price for say a piece of wood that is 300mm (about 1 foot) by 120mm (just under 5 inches) by 25mm (1 inch) thick. I then could specify any length of board stock and input the price per board foot and all worked out fine.
Please explain to me how I should work this out now..ie what width is used for the board stock?
Just as a last comment...This forum is like a drug to me...If I don't get a chance to read it EVERY day, I get withdrawal symptoms!
Paul Ellis
Please explain to me how I should work this out now..ie what width is used for the board stock?
Just as a last comment...This forum is like a drug to me...If I don't get a chance to read it EVERY day, I get withdrawal symptoms!
Paul Ellis
Paul Ellis
"If it works, don't fix it"
"If it works, don't fix it"
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Paul Ellis
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Justin,
Thanks for replying...I dont think there is something wrong with the job. I think is just me that is confused. When talking about price per board feet, is it the 'width' of the board that is one foot? With the length and thickness taken as what? If I know this then I can calculate a price and input that in the material cost. As I said previously the price worked out very accurately for me ( I checked this a few times with excel) Hope this explains my problem better.
Thank you
Paul Ellis
Thanks for replying...I dont think there is something wrong with the job. I think is just me that is confused. When talking about price per board feet, is it the 'width' of the board that is one foot? With the length and thickness taken as what? If I know this then I can calculate a price and input that in the material cost. As I said previously the price worked out very accurately for me ( I checked this a few times with excel) Hope this explains my problem better.
Thank you
Paul Ellis
Paul Ellis
"If it works, don't fix it"
"If it works, don't fix it"
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Kerry Fullington
- Wizard Member
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- Joined: Mon, May 09 2005, 7:33PM
- Company Name: Double E Cabinets
- Country: UNITED STATES
- Location: Amarillo, TX
Paul,
Maybe I can help. Until now you had to enter frame stock like a re cut molding. 1\", 2\" 6\" and so on and price these \"Moldings\" by lineal foot. Now you simply create one material 4/4 Red Oak and this is priced by the Bord foot which is 1\" X 12\" X 12\" and you then tell the software the width of face frame parts and the software calculates how many board feet are in the face frames. The length of the stock does not really matter as the software does the calculations. Use your average stock length as this will let the yield calculated by the software to be correct.
Hope this helps.
I am going through my libraries and changing all the different board stocks 1\", 2\" etc. to a generic 4/4 board stock. Now when change wood species I just have to change the Board Foot Cost of this material to whatever species I am using and change one texture image to reflect the new material.
eCabinets is now going to do the cost calculations that you were using your spread sheet for.
Kerry
Maybe I can help. Until now you had to enter frame stock like a re cut molding. 1\", 2\" 6\" and so on and price these \"Moldings\" by lineal foot. Now you simply create one material 4/4 Red Oak and this is priced by the Bord foot which is 1\" X 12\" X 12\" and you then tell the software the width of face frame parts and the software calculates how many board feet are in the face frames. The length of the stock does not really matter as the software does the calculations. Use your average stock length as this will let the yield calculated by the software to be correct.
Hope this helps.
I am going through my libraries and changing all the different board stocks 1\", 2\" etc. to a generic 4/4 board stock. Now when change wood species I just have to change the Board Foot Cost of this material to whatever species I am using and change one texture image to reflect the new material.
eCabinets is now going to do the cost calculations that you were using your spread sheet for.
Kerry
Last edited by Kerry Fullington on Thu, Mar 01 2007, 10:41AM, edited 1 time in total.
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Wally Schneeberger
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Re:
Paul -- 1 board ft is 1" x 12" x 12"= 144 cu/" All calculations are done by this. If you have a 1x6 x 72" long you have 3 board ft. 1x6x72=432/144=3.Paul Ellis wrote:Justin,
Thanks for replying...I dont think there is something wrong with the job. I think is just me that is confused. When talking about price per board feet, is it the 'width' of the board that is one foot? With the length and thickness taken as what? If I know this then I can calculate a price and input that in the material cost. As I said previously the price worked out very accurately for me ( I checked this a few times with excel) Hope this explains my problem better.
Thank you
Paul Ellis
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Paul Ellis
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Tue, Jan 17 2006, 1:27AM
- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Kerry and Wally,
Thank you, now I am no longer confused - I can now calculate my price by using (300mm/1000) times (300mm/1000) times (25mm/1000) times all of this with the price per cubic meter. This I then input as a price in my board stock....I did this and VIOLA no more confusion!
Thank you
Paul Ellis
Thank you, now I am no longer confused - I can now calculate my price by using (300mm/1000) times (300mm/1000) times (25mm/1000) times all of this with the price per cubic meter. This I then input as a price in my board stock....I did this and VIOLA no more confusion!
Thank you
Paul Ellis
Paul Ellis
"If it works, don't fix it"
"If it works, don't fix it"
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Denis L'Heureux
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Paul Ellis
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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Mitch Cain
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- Company Name: M Cain Woodworking
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So let me ask this...are you guys buying your wood flat sawn?, rift sawn?
does this play nicely with the yield in the cost calculations so that you can back off the yield on a flat sawn board?
For example, in a flat sawn piece of cherry, i will use the straight grain on the ends of the board for face frame and door and rail stock and cut away the heartwood where the grain goes awry. So in a 6 inch wide board, the inner 2 inches is mostly unusable for face frames, etc. How are you accounting for that?
does this play nicely with the yield in the cost calculations so that you can back off the yield on a flat sawn board?
For example, in a flat sawn piece of cherry, i will use the straight grain on the ends of the board for face frame and door and rail stock and cut away the heartwood where the grain goes awry. So in a 6 inch wide board, the inner 2 inches is mostly unusable for face frames, etc. How are you accounting for that?
Black Bear Custom Cabinetry
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Kerry Fullington
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Mitch,
You can buy cherry from mills that remove the heartwood as a defect in the board so you are only buying usable material. Another option is to buy cherry sorted for color, which most mills that cut large amounts of cherry sort for. You might pay a little more than you are now paying for the lumber but the yield is vastly improved by not having to edge or trim boards to remove ugly wood or wane. The lowest priced lumber is very often the most costly when you are done!
(In a former life, I ran a large sawmill!)
You can buy cherry from mills that remove the heartwood as a defect in the board so you are only buying usable material. Another option is to buy cherry sorted for color, which most mills that cut large amounts of cherry sort for. You might pay a little more than you are now paying for the lumber but the yield is vastly improved by not having to edge or trim boards to remove ugly wood or wane. The lowest priced lumber is very often the most costly when you are done!
(In a former life, I ran a large sawmill!)