We build toe kicks as shown in the picture, with stretchers running back to front. We'll add a stretcher for every 24" of width (or length - whatever you want to call that direction).
Take a standard base cabinet. Detached toe, remove back. Set the depth of the cabinet to the height of your toe kick. This gives you a basic frame. Add stretchers and adjust them in the stretcher editor. You will have to make several to account for your 24" rule. Up to 24" cabinets would have two stretchers, one on each end, up to 48" would have four, one on each end and two in the middle etc. The width of the toe kick is adjusted by resizing the height of the cabinet. When you place in detailed room you'll have to rotate them into the proper orientation, since the software will think they are base cabinets.
Glenn, we do toe kicks a little different. Are you cutting these on a router? If so this method is fool proof for assembly. I make a standard base cabinet, with no toe, the height of my toe kick. Then make the face frame out of sheet stock and add partitions for the stretcers. (adding partitions is faster and easier than adding stretchers) These are easy to resize and do not need to be rotated in the room for proper orientation. Also, I use corner blocks (which I cut on the router a couple hundred at a time) instead of the front to back strips. If you are cutting your parts on a dimension saw simply change your construction method to not have dadoes. Hope this helps.
5 X 5 CORNER BLOCK.jpg (10.42 KiB) Viewed 8187 times
Jerry, yep that's much easier. I forgot that face frames can be sheet stock. The one thing I don't get is the in-room placement. Won't the front of the toe be equivalent to the deck of the cabinet, so when it goes in the room it will stand upright?
Glenn, the front of the toe is the top rail, the back of the toe is the cabinet back, the right and left are cabinet ends, and the stretchers are cabinet partitions.