Playing with stuff

[Kerry Fullington]

I am supposed to be working on bids but instead I am playing with pediments and beaded face frames in eCabinets. Maybe someday one of my customers will want some of this stuff.

Kerry

[Damon Nabors]

Nice looking work Kerry. I do a lot of Beaded Face Frame Cabinets and they are a pain in the Rear. Most people do not understand the upcharge for applying that simple little bead and then trying to get the proper reveals around the door.

Here is a resizable beaded face frame insert if anyone needs it. Just resize to your opening and apply.

[Gary Puckett]

When you guys do a beaded face frame do you rout the bead on the face frame or do you pin nail and glue the bead molding onto the frame?

Kerry are you applying a bead on the outside edge of the cabinets also?

Gary

[Jean G Voyer]

I do my bead on the shaper and cut the assembly on the Morso. I also use the little plastic dovetail for attaching. It's worth spending the money to get set.

[Damon Nabors]

Gary,

You can do it either way depending on your comfort zone. If it is a stain grade cabinet, you can pin nail the bead on as you described and you will not notice the seam as much. If it is a painted cabinet, the seam shows up more and will require caulking. Glaze the cabinet as well and you can cover or mask the seam.

I personally like to route the bead onto the rail and style all in one piece. Depending on the type of hinge hardware you are using for your inset doors, the bead can interfere with the mounting hardware and separate from the rail and style.

It is very rewarding to do this type of kitchen plus the overall effect is very pleasing to the eye as Kerry has shown in his Rendering. Once again Kerry, Great looking Kitchen.

[Kerry Fullington]

Gary,

I have a knife for my molder that I use to run the bead on the face frame stock. I am just now "Jigging Up" to play with the beaded face frame on some furniture projects. On the furniture projects I might use the bead on the outside of the frame (the bottom rail would most likely be sculpted and cut with a scraper). I don't think anyone will ever pay for beaded inset around here for cabinets so I can't justify the proper equipment for production. This is just something I wanted to learn.

Kerry

[Gary Puckett]

Kerry and Damon,


Yes applying the bead to the face frame is the way to go, not so bad cutting the bead away for the top and bottom rail the challenge comes with a middle rail that's when the fun begins.

Gary

[Kerry Fullington]

Gary,

I am building a copy of a jig I found on the WoodWeb that lets you use a modified chamfer router bit to notch the stiles. I think it will work great for the little bit that I am going to do. I think applying the bead as a separate molding would be too time consuming. Also how do you make the quirk cut, is it just part of your bead molding?

Kerry

[Gary Puckett]

Yes Kerry it's part of the bit you can get this at Rockler

Just adjust the hight of the bit in your router table to get just the bead and the inner quirk

Gary

[Damon Nabors]

Gary,

I am not sure what a quirk is, but you do not want that top part of the bead. You would want to flush out the bead with the top of the material. Otherwise your margins around the door will look too large.

I ordered a 45deg router bit a few years ago and thought that would be the way to go also. I found that you have to make multiple cuts raising the bit or you will get a little jerking movement pushing your stock to one side when the bit engages the material.

I have found that you can tilt your saw blade to 45deg and cut your miters on the end and at the mid rail or style position and then after you have all your miters cut, change out to a dado blade and nibble away the material between the left and right miter.

The bead was applied to the rails and styles on this particular cabinet. Since it was getting glazed, I don't mind adding the bead to the cabinet.

[Damon Nabors]

This is the bit I ordered. In theory it should work but I did not have good results.

[Gary Puckett]

Damon,

The kwirk is the grove next to the bead. This is what the bead looks like when you adjust the height of the bit.

I am trying to make a tool to show the cope cut for the top and bottom rail and a middel rail. But all you do is cut the bead away up to the flat part of the kwirk and put a 45 degree cut on just the bead for the styles and on the rails you just 45 the bead.

How do you guys put that red arrow on the picture?

Gary

[Damon Nabors]

Gary,

You have to have RED ARROW software.

Snagit software

[Rick Palechuk]

Last time I heard George had a big box of them.

[Gary Puckett]

Oh,

The lazy man way to get this affect is to use inset doors and use that edge bead bit on the edges of the doors adjust the bit so you use both of the flats on the bits. You will have to miter the rails and styles of the doors.

Gary