Pricing with eCabinets

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Thu, Sep 06 2007, 9:32PM

Face frame can provide many different cabinet structures more than frame-less. With frame-less, I have found double drawers a pain in the butt so, I only use a single drawer over a double door in the frame-less breed.

Framed cabinet are so versatile and you can have so many configurations in one cabinet. And they have great oops factor built in.

I use to build face frame, Now it is predominately frame-less. I use a Hybrid for my oven units and such.

Brian Shannon · Post by **Brian Shannon** » Thu, Sep 06 2007, 10:05PM

Those 10' faceframe cabinets get heavier with age. I've been thinking about doing more frameless because of that. The router is really ideal for frameless. It's hard to make the switch but some guys swear by euro cabinets once they get dialed-in. I still like the versatility of faceframe.

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 7:44AM

Brian,

I agree with the versatility, as it can't be beat with by any other means. However the frame-less world has many options and benefits as well. One of the major benefits is I can put out a frame-less set so much faster than a framed set, it's hands down for me.

About a year and a half ago, I made the transition to frame-less and don't want to go back. However there are sometimes when I need a framed cabinet. My Cabinets that don't have doors and book cases are almost always framed. And again it's all what the customer wants. Frame-less book cases look cheep.

Brian Shannon · Post by **Brian Shannon** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 5:22PM

I'm working on a $12K Summer Flame Melamine closet now. I just got the mt'l, banding, rtf doors and df's. I haven't cut yet. I plan to use all blind dado and assemble with screws using pre-drilled holes. Loose toe kicks, sex bolts, RTF Crown. Any suggestions? The best part, it's 50 yards away from my house...

Brian

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 6:05PM

I notice the window seat you have not cut the back of the cabinets, This is a pain in the @$$ as I'm sure you know.

Frameless cabinets here will give you trouble if you don't use a solid filler about 1 1/2\" wide Min 3/4\" wide. This will help the transition to the angular cabinetry that has no substantial left or right side.

The crown by the entry door at the top may pose a threat as well. Check with the builder on the size trim they will use, or if this is an older house, make sure the door trim and crown don't collide. Although you look okay.

Brian Shannon · Post by **Brian Shannon** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 6:17PM

I ordered an RTF Drawer front to rip and use as filler scribes for the window seat. The walls are actually 8'(not 9' as shown) and I will continue the crown around the room.

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 6:25PM

With the frame-less cabinets you don't have the luxury of a top rail to nail to, so you will need to use crown with a freeze plate or install your own before you run the crown.

I make my cabinets 2 7/8\" (my crown bed) lower than the ceiling then I add the freeze plate and crown. The crown will bed out just above the upper doors and this spacing is critical!

Another thing I do on some things is a double cut mitre.

Michael Yeargain · Post by **Michael Yeargain** » Fri, Sep 07 2007, 6:33PM

This type needs a practice run before you actually make a cabinet. The depth of bed of your crown must reflect the depth of the protruding cabinet to work!

Many moons ago I had to build another center cabinet 1\" deeper, because the crown would not work...

The homeowner would not let me pull the cabinet out 1\"