OK all you guru's out there. I am wanting to put a piece of trim around a mirror, a piece of 1/4" x 1" with a 1/4" bead on the edge, mitered on the ends. It is only for looks on the mirror, I just want to be able to do it if I can. It would be the same trim you might put on the inside of faceframes to make a beaded look for an inset door. I was able to make the trim with a display part but can't miter the ends of a profiled part. How do I do it - or can I?
Anytime you have multiple operations to perform in the Part Editor, profiling must be the last operation, so you will have to miter the ends before profiling the edges.
Here is a frame done as a display object. Copy and past both the .jpg and .hsf file in your eCabinets/import file. Make sure they have the exact same name (the forum adds numbers to the file name.) You can then open it in the cabinet editor or place it in a room and highlight it then choose Scale Object and make it any size you want. You can also use match texture to change the look.
Starting with a standard frameless base cabinet, I added 2" face frames from sheet stock (you can use board stock too). Then I removed all other cabinet parts so all that remains is the face frame.
Next I took each part into the Part Editor and, using the chamfer tool (1 distance = 2"), I mitered the ends.
The next step I performed was to apply vertical constraints to each end of each part so the miter would stay put when the part is resized.
Then I applied a profile to the WRONG EDGE (i.e. outside edges instead of inside edges) and inset it 1 3/4" in the opposite direction (so it would be on the inside edge). For example if the long side of the part was on the left, I made the tool path on the left and inset it RIGHT 1 3/4". This has to be done in this manner to prevent a "stopped" profile on the inside mitered ends.
The result? A resizable, mitered and profiled frame.
mitered Profiled Frame.jpg (32.44 KiB) Viewed 10742 times
I knew you guys would have an answer! Kerry, I tried your frame but I needed a 3 sided (no top) frame and didn't know how to separate the top out. That will work well for door beads though so thank you! I finally got it to work doing it with a display cube instead of a panel, and mitered the ends before profiling. Using a display panel (my first attempt) put the part in the wrong direction in the parts editor and I didn't see a way to rotate it but the cube was perfect. Now I need to work with the constraints (I have never done that before) so as I resize it it will carry over. Thanks again guys, and Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!
Bear in mind that you can only resize cabinets and not assemblies or display parts (boards, cubes or panels). If you need it to be resizable try the face frame method. You can make the frame components as wide or narrow as you like and if the are part of a cabinet, they will resize with the cabinet.
So, since my mirror frame is actually a face frame anyway, I would have to make another faceframe into my bead detail, save it, and bring it into the mirror file and add it to the mirror? Since I am just learning this software, I made the mirror out of a faceframe since it was the easiest. However, it actually assembles like a glass paneled cabinet door, made on my shaper and the mirror put in like a glass panel. I wanted to do a door frame with the lower rail wider than the top but couldn't figger out how to do it - so the faceframe was the easiest. What I don't get is the bead on the inside of the mirror frame though. I am thinking I will just make separate display panels or cubes with the proper profiles and assemble them as the frame. It will be good practice on the profiling.
Kerry, that would have made the assembly much easier. I basically made a door frame with the lower rail wider, and rearranged my shaper cutters to make the rabbet for the mirror. My bead/quirk is on the outside (actually a separate piece of trim glued on), and the shaper cutter makes the quarter round bead on the inside. If I had made the unit with mitered corners and put the bead on the outside as an integral part of the unit like yours it would have been easier. These are prototypes anyway, I will try one for our house with the method you suggested and see how that goes.