I am designing a cabinet with the toe kick inset set to zero so that it would be flush with the front. I applied the edgebanding to the raw edges of the sides and everything looks OK. Then I realized that I needed to inset the toe kick .0450 to allow for the P-Lam that will cover the toe kick to flush out with the side banding. When I inset the toe kick, the edgebanding moves up level with the deck for some reason. I can give it a neg. inset to move it outward and the edgebanding works OK.
Disregard the question. My wife was LHAO watching me try to get out of the shower to disregard this one. It hit me once I got the saw dust washed out of my brain that the sides inset with the toe kick which would in turn cut the edge banding short. I need to treat this as a stretcher instead of a toe kick.
Hey Damon, 100% of our commercial cabinets are set on ladders, no melamine setting on the floor........
If your wife got any pictures of that shower fiasco, please ask her to post them, with any inapropriate areas blurred out PLEASE
Damon, our commercial cabinets all sit on ladder bases too. (we make them with exterior grade materials) Also, at least in California, if the cabinets will be used to hold anything for food preparation or storage the top side of the bottom shelf must be a minimum of 6" above the finished floor. The taller ladder base also helps protect the bottom edge of the cabinets from mops and brooms. Another thing to consider is if there is going to be a tile or rubber base board that may cover the face of the ladder base. I suggest you check with the contractor so the ladder base is not too short. One more thing to consider is that in typical commercial applications the cabinets need to be bullet proof because the employees who will be using them do not have the emotional attachment to the cabinets like a home owner does. They will be treated harshly!! Have fun.
Michael S Murray wrote:
If your wife got any pictures of that shower fiasco, please ask her to post them, with any inapropriate areas blurred out PLEASE
Mike, that could leave a mental image in your mind that could do serious harm.
This particular cabinet is not in the food prep area. It is just a display type book case that will be placed in the lounge area. How are you guys building your ladder bases? Are you using pressure treated material and then covering with p-lam?
Just curious, the plans did not spec any type of pressure treated material for the bases, but I agree that it would probably be a good idea just to prevent that inevitable phone call down the road.
This is what they had in mind. Black Melamine interiors and Wilsonart Windsor Mahogany p-lam exterior. How would I work the ladder base on a single cabinet like this. I understand the long runs, I could build the ladder, level, and then install base units on top.
you guys will have to help this Kiwi out.Don"t have a clue as to what you mean by a ladder base! Have you ever thought of using adjustable plastic feet.It's all we use down here(well for the last 10 years or so anyway) easy to adjust and come with a clip for attaching the toe kick. Around 80 cents each and around half a minute to put on four of them .Will easily support stone bench tops.A heck of a lot cheaper than making one out of ply and you can level the unit in seconds!!
Damon -- The plastic levelers is all I use for my kitchens and I have never had a failure or even a crack in one. They support the cabs and a lot of weight with the granite tops. Even on islands and peninsulas I just screw them to the floor after leveling. Here's one I am just about finished.
Yes I use the snap on kicks and sometimes use glue and pin nailer for the corners. Also if they are being covered (tiled or ? ) then I brad nail right to the leg and to a cleat on the wall. It works just fine.