Panel front.

[Greg Haw]

Trying to design a cabinet with no doors on the front just 4 panels. Is there a way to do this? I am just learning the software Just so you know. I tried overlapping door to get rid of the extra style. That didn't work to well. Any other ideas?

[Damon Nabors]

Are you trying to get a wainscot effect?

[Greg Haw]

Yes that's what I am trying to do

[Damon Nabors]

It can be done. If the individual grain direction of rails and styles is not a major factor, the easiest way is to model a part in the parts editor. Or you could do an applied molding with a big spider in the middle like this.

[Rick Palechuk]

This is another way to do it Greg. I use a faceframe cab, remove all the parts except the back and frame. Make the frame from 1/4" sheet stock and the back from 3/4". Set the cab depth at 1". Now you can go to the faceframe editor and do whatever you want. Save as a panel, and resize as required. HTH

[Damon Nabors]

Just got back home and cleaned up the spider webs off the wall. This is the other way of doing it.

[Rick Palechuk]

Artcam?

[Damon Nabors]

The spider was created in artcam, the rest was just moldings created in ecab.

The last one was just a cab with the geometry drawn on the back of a cabinet and then move the back forward to the front of the face frame.

[Kerry Fullington]

Greg,

I use the face frame method. Set your face frame to the sizes you want your stiles and rails. I add a negative inset the length of the cope tongue (either 3/8" or 1/2") to get the lengths of the parts correct. I then inset MDF doors (create a sheet material like 3/4" oak lumber) using a negative gap needed to put the panel into the groove (-5/16" for me) and I use a G-Cove tool to create the outside profile of the mdf doors. Now you can add or subtract panels and everything will re-size. This also gives you a correct cut list.

I also created cope and stick profiles to run on the stiles and rails if I am going to do a closeup in presentation view but it is normally too much trouble to do this.

Kerry

[Damon Nabors]

I found it easier to just apply the geometry to the back of the cabinet and then just move the back forward with a back inset. If you want to re size the cabinet, just change your settings in the constraint manager.

[Kerry Fullington]

Damon,

Do you get correct cutlist for your panels using the back?

Kerry

[Damon Nabors]

Damon,

Do you get correct cutlist for your panels using the back?

Kerry

I guess there is a statement in the middle of that question!

[Kerry Fullington]

Sorry Damon,

It should have read,

"How do you get a correct cutlist using the back?"

Kerry

[Damon Nabors]

I know Kerry, I am just poking fun. You can't get a cut list.

But if it was me, and I know the opening is say 15 x 24, I am going to know in my head from doing this for so long and knowing the formulas for my shaper tools. That panel is going to be 15 7/8 x 24 7/8, and I can use the cut list for the rails and stiles from the face frame. I just need to add to the length of the rails and any mid styles for the cope and stick profile of my cutter.

[Greg Haw]

Well ok , Like I said I am just learning the software and don't fully understand much of what was said. I do thank you all for the replies and education. I am just going through old jobs and redoing them in ecabinets to learn the software. If my drafting skills were better I think I would stick with that. Damon: Do you mean drawing geometry on the back panel as in using the part editor to do so?
Kerry not sure I understand "I add a negative inset the length of the cope tongue (either 3/8" or 1/2") to get the lengths of the parts correct." I assume that is done in construction settings. and I create a slab door and install it inset into the face frame ? Well I will try to figure some of it out, And once again thanks to all
Greg